Dear Beloved Gourmet Club,

After scanning the globe from Asia to The America’s, we have decided to land in Italy to enjoy the recipes and cuisine of Chef Mario Batali.

We have not been to any of his restaurants or watched his show.  However, we did catch a segment about him on the Food Network where he struck us as a colorful character with a mix of part chef, part artist and part marketeer.  He came highly recommended from some family and friends.  As we studied his recipe books and the web, we found some fun and interesting variations on some otherwise ordinary dishes.  We hope you agree.

The menu is as follows:  Please note that the yields are provided on each recipe and will need to be adjusted accordingly.

Most will need to be doubled, the dessert will need to be 1 and ½ ed.

Bonnie/Art                 Warm Terrine of Sausage, Peppers, Polenta, and Mozzarella

Rochelle/Llew          Prosciutto di Parma con Insalata di Mele Parmigiano (Prosciutto with Apple Salad)

ML/Bret                      Grilled Shrimp with White Beans, Rosemary, Mache, and Mint Oil

ML/Bret                      Asparagus Sformato with Fondata

Rochelle/Llew          Risotto with Porcini, Shiitake, and Vin Santo

Amy/Dan                  Tiramisu-the Dinosaur

We look forward to welcoming you all this Saturday, March 31st at 7:30 at our home.

Warm Regards,

ML and Bret

Warm Terrine of Sausage, Peppers, Polenta, and Mozzarella

Serves 6

8 oz sweet sausage
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
12 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½” wide strips
1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½” wide strips
8 oz fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into strips 3 inches by ¼” by ¼”
6 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cups quick cooking polenta or yellow cornmeal
¼ cup grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese

preheat oven to 350o

Arrange the sausage in a baking pan and cook in the oven for 20 minutes.  Drain off the fat, then crumble the cooked sausage to resemble rough bread crumbs.  Set aside.

In a medium sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat.  Gently sauté the garlic until golden brown on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes.  Add the bell peppers and sauté unil soft but not browned, 7 to 8 minutes longer.  Remove from heat, transfer the garlic and peppers to a bowl, and let cool.

Bring the mozzarella to room temperature.  Arrange the sausage, peppers, garlic, and mozzarella in separate bowls.  Set out a terrine, 13X4X4 inches.

Bring the water to a boil, adding the salt and sugar.  Slowly add the polenta to the boiling water in a thin stream, whisking continuously.  Lower the heat and cook until the polenta resembles the texture of hot cereal, 2 to 3 minutes.  Remove the pot from heat.  The polenta will begin to thicken immediately, so time here is of the essence.

Moving quickly, pour a ¾” layer of polenta into the prepared terrine.  Sprinkle all the crumbled sausage over the polenta.  Cover the sausage with about 1½ cups more polenta, using a spatula to smooth the top.  Next, make a layer with the peppers and garlic cloves and top with another 1½ cups warm polenta.  Smooth and flatten the polenta to make a nice, even layer all the way around the edges.  Arrange the mozzarella over the polenta (but do not bring the mozzarella to the edges as it will stick to the sides when it melts).  Fill the terrine with a final layer of warm polenta, there may be polenta left over.  Smooth the top all the way to the edges.  Cover the terrine with plastic wrap and chill overnight.

Preheat oven to 4750

To serve, invert the terrine onto a cutting board.  (It should come out quite easily.)  Cut the terrine in ¾” thick slices.  Place the slices on a baking sheet and bake for 10 to 12 minutes.  Sprinkle with grated cheese and serve immediately.

Prosciutto di Parma con Insalata di Mele Parmigiano (Prosciutto with Apple Salad)

Serves 4

1/2 pound thinly sliced prosciutto di Parma
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and cored
1 McIntosh apple, peeled and cored
1 Golden Delicious apple, peeled and cored
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 head radicchio di Treviso, leaves detached
Salt and pepper
Parmigiano-Reggiano, for shaving

Place the prosciutto on a large platter. Julienne all apples and place in a mixing bowl. Add the poppy seeds, olive oil, vinegar and radicchio and salt and pepper, to taste and toss to coat. Arrange the salad in the center of the plate and shave curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano over the salad and ham. Serve immediately.

Grilled Shrimp with White Beans, Rosemary, Mache, and Mint Oil

Serves 4

1½ cups cooked great northern beans
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons finely chopped red onion
1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram leaves
juice and zest of 1 lemon
salt and pepper
2 cups fresh mache, washed and spun dry
12 jumbo shrimp (about 1 1/3 pounds), preferably with heads on and partially peeled
¼ cup mint oil

Mint Oil

½ cup packed fresh mint leaves
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Bring saucepan of water to a boil.  Prepare an ice bath.  Plunge the mint leaves into the boiling water for 30 seconds, then remove to the ice bath.  Squeeze out the excess liquid and puree in a food processor for 1 minute with the olive oil.  Makes 1 cup

Preheat the grill or broiler

In a mixing bowl, stir together the cooked beans, rosemary, olive oil, onion, marjoram, and lemon juice and zest.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add the mache to the beans and toss to combine.  Arrange in the centers of 4 plates.

Season the shrimp with salt and pepper, brush with a bit of additional oil, and grill just until cooked through, about 4 minutes per side.  Prop 3 shrimp against the mache and beans, teepee fashion, on each plate.

Drizzle with the mint oil and serve.

Asparagus Sformato with Fondata
2 cups bechamel sauce, recipe follows
1 pound fresh medium asparagus, rough ends removed
1 teaspoon salt
1 pinch freshly ground nutmeg, or to taste
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
2 eggs and 2 yolks
2 ounces butter
1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs, lightly toasted under broiler
Bechamel: Balsamella 
1 stick unsalted butter 
1 cup all-purpose flour 
4 cups hot milk 
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Fondata: 
4 ounces fontina cheese 
6 ounces heavy cream 
1/2 teaspoon salt 
Freshly ground black pepper

Melt butter in a 2-quart saucepan until frothing. Remove from heat and stir in flour with a whisk. Cook over low heat for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add 1/2 of the hot milk and whisk until smooth. Add remaining milk and whisk until smooth. Bring to boil, add nutmeg, lower heat and simmer 10 minutes. Can be used hot or cold.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
Bring 4 quarts water to boil. Add 2 tablespoons salt. Blanch the asparagus until just tender (1 minute) and remove to ice bath and refresh. Once the asparagus has cooled, remove from the ice bath and pat dry.
Cut the cooled asparagus in 1/2. Cut the top 1/2 into 1/2-inch pieces and set the pieces aside. Place the bottom halves in a food processor and blend into a fine puree.
In a mixing bowl, mix the pureed asparagus, the bechamel, salt, nutmeg, Parmesan, eggs and yolks. Stir until thoroughly combined. Gently fold in the top halves of the asparagus pieces which had been previously set aside.
Butter an 8-inch bundt pan and coat with bread crumbs. Pour the asparagus mixture into the bundt pan. Fill a 12-inch baking pan 2/3 filled with hot water. Place the bundt pan on the baking pan, so that the bundt is standing in the hot water. Carefully place the baking pan (with the bundt pan) into the oven. Bake until the top of the sformatio is golden brown and a dipped toothpick comes out clean, about 35 to 40 minutes. Remove and allow to cool 15 minutes. Meanwhile, make the fondata.
To make the fondata: Mix the grated fontina, the heavy cream, and the salt and pepper in small saucepan. Heat gently, stirring constantly, until smooth and creamy.
To serve: Turn the sformato out onto a large plate. Cut into 2-inch slices and place the slices on serving plates. Spoon the fondata over the slices and serve immediately.
Risotto with Porcini, Shiitake, and Vin Santo

Serves 4

4 cups chicken stock
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ medium red onion, finely chopped
8 ouncecs fresh porcini mushrooms, stems and caps sliced ¼” thick
8 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, hard stems removed and slice ¼” thick
1½ cups Arborio rice
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1 cup Vin Santo (an Italian wine, substitute a fino or amontillado sherry)
½ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
salt and pepper

In a medium saucepan, heat the chicken stock to a simmer and place on a back burner over low heat.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed 12-14 inch sauté pan over medium heat,  Add the onion and sauté until translucent but not browned, about 5 minutes.

Add the mushrooms and sauté until lightly browned but not fully cooked, 6 to 7 minutes.  Add the rice and stir 1 minute to coat thoroughly.  Ladle ½ cup of warm stock over the rice and cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is absorbed.  Add another ladle of broth and continue to cook, keeping the risotto at a slow boil and adding more stock.  Repeat until riceis quite al dente (12 to 14 minutes).  Add the butter, wine, and cheese and bring to a boil again, continuing to stir until the rice is done – firm and tender all the way through.

Season with salt and pepper and serve.

Tiramisu-the Dinosaur

Serves 6

4 ounces strong espresso (or substitute 2 teaspoons instant coffee in 1/2 cup water)
2 ounces Italian brandy
4 egg yolks
2 tablespoons sugar
2 egg whites
2 cups mascarpone cheese (may substitute ricotta or cream cheese)
30 small savoiaridi, or 15 broken in half (a.k.a. Ladyfingers)
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, broken into 1/4 inch pieces
3 ounces milk chocolate, shaved or grated
6 large wine goblets

Mix coffee and brandy together and set aside.

Over a double boiler, beat egg yolks and sugar until mixture lightens in color and forms ribbons (i.e. halfway to zabaglione). Allow to cool 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, beat egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold mascarpone into egg yolk mixture one quarter at a time. Fold mascarpone mixture into egg whites and set aside.

Lay savoiardi along edges of wine goblets all the way to the bottom, lining the entire glass (while keeping 6 savoiardi for later use). Using a pastry brush, and paint the cookies with the espresso/brandy mixture.

Fill each goblet one third full with mascarpone mixture and sprinkle with broken chocolate. Lay one savoiardi across center and and paint with coffee mixture. Fill each goblet with remaining mascarpone mixture, topping each with shaved chocolate. Lay one savoiardi in each of the remaining 5 goblets and and paint with espresso mixture.

Can be served at room temperature. Tiramisu was served chilled in the 1980s.

Autumn 2006—Dinner by Giada

Hosted by Bonnie and Art
Autumn Harvest Dinner by Giada de Laurentis
Five of the items we are making tonight are recipes I gathered from the Food Network (to which I am a dedicated watcher; some may say addicted). Specifically, these recipes were shared and demonstrated by Giada deLaurentiis (whom Art thinks is totally HOT, but I think is a great cook who provides simply delicious suggestions.) And since Italian is Art’s favorite food-type, (and Giada is his favorite Italian) we will be enjoying her selections….

(Bonnie at her beautifully laid dining table all set for our salad course)

Asparagus and Smoked Salmon Bundles

Makes 4-6 servings

1 bunch asparagus, ends trimmed (about 20 spears)
Pinch kosher salt
2 Tablespoons olive oil
Pinch freshly ground black pepper
1 Tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves
4-6 oz. thinly sliced smoked salmon

Preheat oven to 425°. Lay the asparagus on a foil-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with rosemary, salt, and pepper. Roast until cooked and starting to brown around the edges, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer to another baking sheet to cool.

Once the asparagus have cooled, wrap each spear in a slice of smoked salmon. Arrange on a serving platter and serve at room temperature.

Note: I made this last weekend and was happy with the peppercorn smoked salmon I bought at Trader Joe’s. I bought 2 packages and cut each slice into halves or thirds before I wrapped the asparagus spears.

Pizette with Gorgonzola, Tomato, and Basil

6 servings

8 oz. purchases pizza dough
2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 oz. Gorgonzola, crumbled
¼ cup fresh basil, torn in pieces
3 oz. Cherry tomatoes, quartered
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 475°. Roll out the pizza dough to ¼ inch thick. Using a 2-2 ½ inch diameter cookie cutter, cut out 18 circles from the dough. Arrange the circles on a heavy large baking sheet. Sprinkle the Gorgonzola cheese over the circles. Top with the tomatoes, pressing them gently into the dough. Bake until the pizzettes are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Drizzle the pizzettes with oil. Sprinkle the basil over the pizzettes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange on a platter and serve immediately.

Note: I noticed that Trader Joe’s has pizza dough in their refrigerated section, if you’re looking for pizza dough.

Veal Marsala
4 servings

8 veal cutlets (3 oz. each) 2-4 garlic clove, smashed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 oz. assorted mushrooms, sliced
2-3 T. unsalted butter ½ cup sweet Marsala
2-4 T. olive oil ¾ cup low-salt chicken broth
1 large shallot, finely chopped Leaves from 1 fresh rosemary sprig

Sprinkle the veal with salt and pepper. Melt 1 T of butter and 1 T. of oil in a heavy large skillet over medium high heat. Add 4 veal cutlets and cook until golden brown, about 1 ½ minutes per side. Transfer the veal to a plate. Add another T. of butter and oil, if necessary. Repeat with the remaining 4 cutlets. Set the cutlets aside.

Add 1 T. of oil to the skillet. Add the shallot and garlic. Sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add a T. of the olive oil, if necessary. Add the mushrooms and sauté until tender and the juices evaporate, about 3 minutes. Season with salt. Add the Marsala. Simmer until the Marsala reduces by half, about 2 minutes. Add the broth and the rosemary leaves. Simmer until reduces by half, about 4 minutes. Return the veal to the skillet. Pour in all of the pan juices. Cook until heated through, turning to coat, about 1 minute. Stir the remaining 1 T. of butter into the sauce. Season the sauce with salt and pepper, to taste.

Using tongs, transfer the veal to plates. Spoon the sauce over the veal and serve.

Sauteed Apple Salad with Roquefort Cheese and Walnuts
6 servings

¼ cup Sherry wine vinegar or red wine vinegar
1 T. sugar
1 T. chopped fresh thyme or 1 tsp. dried
1 cup crumbled Roquefort cheese
½ cup plus 1 T. olive oil
½ cup chopped toasted walnuts
6 cups mixed baby greens
3 cups trimmed watercress
1 Belgian endive, sliced
1 ½ lbs. Golden Delicious Apples, peeled, cut into ½ inch thick slices

Combine vinegar and thyme in small bowl. Gradually whisk in ½ cup oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Combine greens, watercress and endive in large bowl. Heat remaining 1 T. oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add apples and sugar and sauté until apples are almost tender, about 8 minutes. Increase heat to high and sauté until golden brown, about 5 minutes longer. Place atop greens in bowl. Sprinkle salad with Roquefort and walnuts. Toss with enough dressing to coat. Serve, passing remaining dressing separately.

Red Wine Risotto with Peas
4 servings

3 ½ cups canned low-salt chicken broth 1/3 cup frozen peas, defrosted
3 T. unsalted butter
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 cup finely shopped onion
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan,
2 garlic cloves, minced plus additional for garnish
1 cup Arborio rice
½ cup dry red wine (good quality)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring the broth to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover the broth and keep it warm over very low heat.

Melt butter in a heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic and sauté for 30 seconds. Stir in the rice and cook for about 2 minutes until the rice is toasted. Add the wine and stir until it is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add ¾ cup of hot broth; simmer over medium-low heat until the liquid is absorbed, stirring often, about 6 minutes. Repeat, adding ¾ cup of hot broth 2 more times, stirring often, about 12 minutes longer. At this point, the risotto can be made 4 hours ahead. Refrigerate the risotto (the rice will still be firm) and remaining broth, uncovered, until cool. Then cover and keep them refrigerated until ready to proceed.

Bring the remaining broth to a simmer, then cover and keep it warm over very low heat. Stir ¾ cup of hot broth into the partially cooked risotto over medium heat until the broth is absorbed and the risotto is hot, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining broth and simmer until the rice is just tender and the mixture is creamy, about 5 minutes longer. Stir in the peas and parsley. Add the ½ cup of Parmesan. Season, to taste, with salt and pepper. Sprinkle additional cheese over and serve.

Note: I was glad to see that this recipe offers a make-ahead option since risotto usually needs to be made just before serving.

Sauteed Broccoli Rabe
4-6 servings

4 bunches (12-16 oz. each) broccoli rabe, stems trimmed
¼ cup olive oil
1/3 cup raisins
3 garlic cloves, chopped
Salt
½ tsp. dried crushed red pepper flakes
2 T. pine nuts, toasted

Working in batches, cook the broccoli rabe in a large pot of boiling salted water until crips tender, about 2-3 minutes per bunch. Transfer the broccoli rabe to a large bowl of ice water to cool. Reserve about ¼ cup of the cooking liquid. Strain the cooled broccoli rabe and set aside.

Heat the oil in a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes, and sauté until the garlic is golden, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add the broccoli rabe and toss to coat. Add the reserved cooking water, the raisins, and cook until the broccoli rabe is heated through and the stems are tender, about 4 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Just before serving, toss the mixture with pine nuts.

Pumpkin Ice Cream Pie

For one pie

Crust: 24 ginger snaps, crushed and mixed with enough butter to pat into pie pan (about 2 Tablespoons, softened). At this point, save about 2 Tablespoons of crust mix to sprinkle on top of pie. Bake crust for 8 minutes at 350 degrees. COOL COMPLETELY BEFORE FILLING.

Filling: 1 cup pumpkin
¼ tsp. nutmeg
½ cup sugar
1/8 tsp. cloves
½ tsp. salt
½ cup chopped pecans, optional
½ tsp. cinnamon
1 quart softened vanilla ice cream
Mix first 7 ingredients together to blend, then fold in the vanilla ice cream. Sprinkle the saved ginger snaps on top. Put into cooled crust and freeze for at least 3 hours. Overnight is best.

Note: I recommend that you make two pies, Amy, one without nuts. I thought you would like this recipe since you can make it the day before. I have made it several times and we all love it!

This essay appeared in the Travel section of the Summer 2006 issue of Bombay’s Upper Crust magazine. Click here to read more about the magazine.

 Of Tapas And Tio Pepe: On A Gastronomic Tour Of Spain
ROCHELLE ALMEIDA says Spain’s taste buds have gone through a revolution and the culinary pleasures are now varied.

If you think that Spain’s gastronomic repertoire is restricted to just tapas and paella, think again. The nation’s taste buds have undergone a revolution in recent years and visitors to the Iberian Peninsula can now partake of culinary pleasures that are excitingly varied. Of course, much depends on which part of Spain you choose to explore because each region capitalises on its own produce. But if you are adventurous enough to experiment, you will be rewarded with an abundance of delightful meals that will make your palate sing Ole! My gourmet adventures began in the capital, Madrid, where at the bustling Puerto del Sol, a huge billboard advertising Tio Pepe, Spain’s superb dry sherry, smiles down on tourists in much the same way that the fizzing bottle of Coca-Cola bubbles forth at New York’s Times Square. The preferred potent at meal-time, though, is Sangria and most restaurants do a fairy decent version of this fruity cocktail. Easy to reproduce at your home bar, Sangria is simply equal parts of a red wine (try one of their excellent Riojas) with a sparkling lemonade and throw in a combination of cubed apples (leaving the skin on for color), orange and pineapple segments. Serve in tall glasses tinkling with crushed ice. I had Sangria everywhere I traveled in Spain, but by far the best concoction was in Toledo, right outside the Sinagoga del Transito, where the many climbs amidst that hilly terrain had stirred my thirst buds awake.

Paella (pronounced Pa-ay-ya) is Spain’s contribution to global gormandising and though every Madrileno will recommend a different restaurant, you can’t go wrong at Ristorante La Sirena Verde on the Gran Villa, one of Madrid’s main thoroughfares. I was, fortunately, tipped off by a knowledgeable gourmet about this completely unpretentious place, and I’m glad I took him at his word. After you have crossed the threshold into this restaurant, head upstairs where the décor takes on a decidedly nautical air and shades of blue combine with off-white to create a space that is evocative of Spain’s sea-faring heritage. Extremely attentive wait staff brought me menus and recommendations from a wine list which, though not a mile long, covered a gamut of budgets. Settling for a rather good white Rioja, (Cune, semi-dry) I browsed the menu and chose the Paella del Mariscos (24 Euros for two persons), a Seafood Paella that is a meal in itself —other variation is a Paella de Valencia which, in addition to the seafood, includes chicken. Needless to the say, the seafood version has rice cooked in fish stock while the Valencia uses chicken broth. Both versions come studded with tender green peas.

But it is the unmistakable presence of the flavor of saffron, that most prized of condiments, that makes a memorable Paella. Grown on the vast plains of Castilla La Mancha, early spring sees the profuse emergence of this crocus cultivar so that the fields turn purple in response to the resurrection of the flowers after the long dormant winter season. It is because the stamens of the crocus have to be carefully picked and graded by hand that saffron is such an expensive condiment. Fortunately, a little goes a long way. When you add a few strands to warm milk or water, you bring out the flavour of the precious stamens. The mixture is added to the Paella pan just before the rice is fully cooked through and the heat is turned off. Overheating the condiment would cause the fragrance to dissipate completely. Paella del Marisco comes with clams, giant prawns, calamari, squid, and a plethora of shrimp, making it a seafood lover’s delight. If yours is an authentic Paella, your waiter will serve it to you straight off the flame in a special flat Paella pan, usually made of beaten copper. It is the pan’s shape — its essential shallowness — that keeps each grain of rice separate and dry, preventing it from cooking into a gloppy mass in the way that Italian risottos tend to become after the addition of all that hot stock to Arborio rice.

Spain is also famous for its Serrano ham-serre means dry in Spanish and the hams are so-called because they are left to smoke in the dry air of the mountains in the Alpajurra region in Andalucia. All over Spain’s cities from Madrid to Seville, you will find sidewalks dotted with Musees de Jambon (pronounced Haam-bau). They are not called museums for nothing — what one finds inside, hanging from the rafters, are row upon row of smoked hams of varied flavour, each originating in a different part of Spain. Spaniards love their jambon at mid-morning when they place it on long slices of baguette-like bread and eat it like an open sandwich with a cup of coffee. The same Serrano ham is a standard item on tapas menus. Don’t sneeze at this modest peasant snack. You might well find yourself making a meal of it, particularly if you combine it with the superlative Manchego, Spain’s best-selling cheese made from sheep’s milk on the plains of La Mancha, habitat of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza — hence the name. This extraordinarily flavourful cheese is also melted over Serrano ham and served over toasted bread, to create a grilled version — Spain’s response to France’s Croque Monsieur. And that brings me to tapas. No longer mystery morsels, these delectable appetizers have brought out the creativity in contemporary chefs so that a whole range awaits the adventuresome palate. I decided to make a meal of tapas at Ristrorante Naturbrier at Plaza Santa Ana in Madrid where in a pavement café, under the brilliantly illuminated Neo-Classical building of the Teatro Espagnol, I sampled a variety of pickled manzilla olives and smoked hams, tuna paste and marinated mushrooms as I sipped a truly splendid Toro red wine. Literally meaning “cover”, tapas originally referred to the slice of ham that was used as a cover to prevent insects from falling into the glasses of wine that were sipped at the counter by patrons in Spain’s innumerable bars. As time went by, these snacks that were served free of charge to regular patrons evolved into the more complicated and creative offerings that today include smoked meats and salamis, olives — both green and black and often stuffed with pimentos-marinated artichokes and mushrooms, and spicy seafood. They serve the same purpose as Italy’s antipasto platters. In fact, the more you eat your way through Europe, the more you will realise that with slight cultural variations, almost all national cuisines follow the same basic conventions. While it is customary to seek out great meals at restaurants, don’t overlook the very decent fare to be found in the cafeterias attached to major monuments. One of the more interesting and comfortably priced meals I ate was in the cafeteria of the Museo del Prado where, after gobbling up the artistic offerings in the form of Goyas, El Grecos and Velasquez in the galleries, I was left with little energy to go out in search of a sit-down meal. The cafeteria was the best bet and I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Beef Ragout or Stew that my husband Llew ordered as well as the Spinach and Chickpea Soup that I chose were delicious and superbly flavored, not to mention very filling when combined with the good crusty artisinal bread that was a part of the meal.

Don’t even think of leaving Spain without partaking of the country’s favorite snack — Chocolate and churros. Ideally eaten in-between meals, for elevenses or at tea-time, simply the best place to indulge in these irresistible goodies is just past the Teatro Real (Royal Theater) in Madrid. You will arrive on Calle de Arenal, a street known firstly for its bull-fighting arena, the Plaza del Toros, and secondly for the Chocolateria San Gines, an establishment that dates from the late 1800s and still serves the best version of Spain’s fast-disappearing national snack. I plonked down at old-fashioned marble topped tables to enjoy the treat (a steal at 3 Euros) and dunked my churros (long deep-fried sticks of dough) fondue-style into the sauce-like hot chocolate as I saw the local Madrilenos do. Don’t expect to finish the entire cup, no matter how confirmed a chocoholic you might be. The heaviness of the chocolate, its thickness, its cloying sweetness, all of which seem delectable at first soon seem much too rich after a few spoonfuls. And yes, you will need to use the spoon that is very thoughtfully provided for the hot chocolate is much too thick to be sipped in the conventional style. Perhaps that’s why they also serve a tall glass of iced water with this staple.

Everywhere I ate in Madrid, I found the meals uniformly satisfying. But by far some of the most interesting dishes I ate was at La Truscha Restaurant near Plaza Santa Ana where I opted for wonderful grilled trout stuffed with Serrano ham, garlic and capers and Chicken grilled with Garlic after consuming deliciously simple tapas-smoked ham and pickled manzilla olives. I found also that the house wine, a white Valdapenas, was surprisingly good and surprisingly cheap-wine is often cheaper than soft drinks in Spanish restaurants.

When I did leave Madrid behind to drive south and take in the Moorish treasures of Andalucia, I was delighted to come upon a restaurant in the very midst of Granada where the North African Islamic influence is clearly in evidence. At Granada’s main square, the Puerta Nuevo, I ordered Doner Kebab, and was astonished to find that it was the most popular item on the menu. Thinly sliced and delicately spiced marinated lamb was served in a hearty pita pocket with a liberal helping of onions, tomatoes and shredded lettuce in a spicy yoghurt dressing. Easily one of the cheapest meals I ate in Spain (3.50 Euros per Doner Kebab), this is the budget traveler’s answer to good gastronomy.

After touring the mighty Al-Hambra Palace, my appetite was whetted for a good repast and I was pleased to come upon one of Spain’s most common menu offerings — Shrimp sauteed in olive oil and flavored liberally with garlic and parsley. I ate this marvelous meal, very reminiscent of Italy’s Shrimp Scampi in Ristorante Valle del Punta in a tiny village called Padul right outside of Granada. A fire was actually lit in the open grate bringing much needed warmth to the rustic interior. Washed down with beer, it made a fine meal especially since I used the sesame studded bread rolls to sop up the last drop of the garlic flavored oil on my plate.

Cruising down the Costa del Sol, I contented myself with modest pickings in the ritzy-chic beach resort of Marbella as sight-seeing and beach-combing took priority over long-drawn-out meals. All the beach towns along the coast, though, from the main city of Malaga to small villages such a Torremolinos and Benalmadena offer a variety of eateries to suit every pocket. Overtaken by seasonal visitors, mainly from the British Isles, their menus feature everything from Fish and Chips to Moroccan tagines (since Morocco lies right across the Straits of Gibraltar and the Rif Mountains of the Northern African coast seem close enough that you feel compelled to reach out and touch them). Hold on to your enthusiasm for more sybaritic fare, however, until you reach the bull-fighting city of Seville. Having arrived there rather late in the evening, I chose to go out immediately in search of dinner, pausing only to gasp at the huge monolithic mass of the magically illuminated Gothic Cathedral, one of Europe’s largest, and ending at La Cueva, a restaurant in the former Jewish quarter called the Barrio Santa Cruz. Like all Spanish spaces that are frozen in time, Santa Cruz is a complicated network of narrow cobbled streets and alleys full of souvenir shops, restaurants and tapas bars. Le Cueva Restaurant is located on Calle Rodrigo Caro in a very pretty patio and is decorated in typical Spanish colonial style with ceramic pots and plates, the heads of bulls stuffed and mounted on walls, and the festive costumes of renowned matadors framed as wall art. There were wooden chairs painted quaintly with faiance designs and patterns, checkered tablecloths, antique Spanish religious statuary, and lovely ceramic pottery and pitchers to hold food. One could also choose to sit outside in a charming orange grove (the Patio de Naranjos) that is softly lit by wrought-iron lanterns.

I decided to eat an assorted platter of Spanish sausages as my first course (13 euros). These arrived promptly — Serrano ham, a variety of smoked sausages, liverwurst and manchego cheese. Llew chose a Caldera or Lamb Stew for his entrée while I went for the Frito Mixto, a plate of assorted fried fish, lightly dipped in batter and fried to a crisp (12 euros each). It reminded me very much of the fried fish my mother serves in Bombay. A pitcher of icy cold Sangria with bits of apple and oranges floating in it (8 euros) accompanied our meal. A noisy group of middle-aged French tourists at an accompanying table brought much life and vitality to the atmosphere while we savored our Spanish repast.

Seville is distinctive for its endless groves of orange trees. Indeed, each street is lined by miniature orange trees that form picturesque canopies as you stroll under them. I was fascinated by the fact that I could reach out and pluck the oranges right off the branches, only to be disappointed at finding the fruit too tart to be edible. That’s when I discovered that it is not the fruit that is prized but the rind of the Seville orange which being particularly bitter is coveted in the manufacture of quality marmelade. It was in the late 1800s that a shipment of sour Seville oranges arrived in the UK. Unable to consume them, a home chef threw them into a pan and boiled them with a measure of sugar. The rind softened as it cooked and gave the jam a subtly bitter flavor. Thus was born the famous orange marmelade that is a staple at British breakfast tables. Each year, shiploads of Seville oranges make their way across the English Channel to England where the golden shreds are transformed into the world-famous orange marmelade. Next stop: Cordoba, that ancient gem of the Moors, city of the gigantic Mezquita-Cathedral, offered another unforgettable meal. This time my quest for sustenance began in La Juderia, the abandoned Jewish district, to find a suitable restaurant for a good Andalucian meal. Referring to my guidebooks, I opted for La Churassca Restaurant on Calle Romero that offered a variety of barbecued meats in Argentinian or Brazilian style. Set in a traditional white-washed building in the heart of the Jewish district, the restaurant was very picturesquely decorated with all kinds of regional motifs including ceramic tiles and serve ware that are the hallmarks of the potteries of this area. My waiter, a gracious old man who was both attentive and helpful, suggested I start off with traditional Spanish Potato Omlettes (4.50 euros). Though this was nothing to look at and lacked any kind of presentation finesse, the dish was surprisingly delicious and flavorful. Spanish Omlettes are meals in themselves but a smallish wedge makes a good appetizer if you decide to opt for a multi-course meal. On my waiter’s recommendation, I ordered the Grilled Pork Loin served with Sauce Arabes (12.50 Euros) for which the restaurant is well reputed. Though quite edible, the meal was not outstanding.

Though I have mentioned Toledo earlier, it was in this fascinating medieval city that we brought our travels in Spain to a close. To end on a sweet note, I would heartily recommend that you make a quick stop at Marzipan San Tome, a confectionery store right behind the Iglesia San Tome, the most frequently visited monument in the entire city, for a taste of their legendary marzipan whose preparation goes back centuries. Indeed, the manufacture and the consumption of marzipan can be traced back to the Middle Ages and on tasting the very delicately shaped confections in this sweet shop, I discovered that some recipes (just powdered almonds, sugar, egg whites and almond essence kneaded to a soft dough) just don’t change despite the passage of time. I guess the belief is that if it ain’t broke, you don’t fix it!

Sampling my way through Spain was as much fun as inspecting its museums, strolling through its Islamic remains and exploring its legendary gardens. Whether it is rural fare your heart might desire or the more sophisticated meals of its imperial heritage, your tongue will stand up to salute this distinctive cuisine as you sing Viva Espana!