Have UK Visa, Will Travel

So, the UPS man delivered my passport today with my UK work visa stamped in it. Now all that’s left is for me to remember to carry it along en route to London. The paperwork was surprizingly easy now that everything is done online. No horrendous queues to stand in, for one thing. This almost felt like “Take Out Service”–like receiving my passport and visa in the mail the same way I receive pizza from Dominos.
Once I sign up for Aetna’s Global Insurance coverage which is provided courtesy of my employer, NYU, I shall be set for the year–hopefully it will be a healthy one and I will not have to avail of the services of the the UK’s Public Health System (which is supposedly very impressive overall).

The Countdown Begins

OK, UK visa’s been issued, air ticket’s been booked. I’m on my way to teach for a year at NYU–London! YIIKKKEES!

Picked up some boxes today and will soon get down to the serious business of deciding what I will ship to London and what I will leave behind at Holly Berry House. Decisions, decisions! Imagine stuffing everything you will need for a whole year into 2 suitcases. It’s a good thing Llew is accompanying me to London to settle me down. That will allow me 4 suitcases, I guess. Now, suddenly, things are looking up!

My recent birthday gifts included a ton of books on London and the UK (mainly from Chriselle and Chris, bless their hearts) which I will start to read once airborne.

So, I guess with exactly a month before departure, the countdown has begun. I am SOOOO excited!

Americana For Memorial Day

 Americana Rocks!

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Hey Y’all,

We are really looking forward to seeing you all this weekend. I am sure Bonnie is especially excited as Art’s return is imminent.Since it is Memorial Day weekend, an Americana menu was a natural.We panned the 50 states in search of the perfect fare and decided to focus in on the southern region with Paula Deen.I have only watched her show a few times, but I enjoy her approach to life and cooking and I love butter (although I use it sparingly).Plus Bret has been to her restaurant.

As you will see, we picked the “healthiest” of her recipes and also the least complicated ones as we know this is a busy (holiday) weekend for all of us.

Brett and Mary-Lauren Factora

 

MENU

Appetizer—Spinach Gruyere Puff Pastry—Bonnie/Art

Entrée—Gussie’s Fried Chicken with Pecan-Honey Glaze—ML/Bret

Veggie—Spicy Green Beans—Rochelle/Llew

Side—Mango Coconut Rice—ML/Bret

Salad—Spinach, Strawberry, and Hearts of Palm Salad—MJ/Ford

Dessert—Old-Fashioned Chocolate Cake—Amy/Dan

Spinach Gruyere Puff Pastry

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Ingredients: · 1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed · 4  tablespoon  butter, divided · 1  cup  sliced fresh mushrooms · 1  cup  Gruyere cheese, grated · 1 (17 1/2-ounce) package frozen puff pastry sheets, thawed · Salt and Pepper to taste
Directions: Drain spinach well, pressing between layers of paper towels to remove excess moisture.Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add mushrooms and cook, for 5 minutes. Stir together spinach, mushrooms and cheese; set aside. Roll 1 pastry sheet into a 13×11-inch rectangle. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Brush 1/2 melted butter over pastry. Spread 1/2 spinach mixture over butter. Roll-up, jellyroll fashion, starting with the long side. Repeat procedure with remaining pastry sheet, butter, and spinach mixture. (Wrap rolls in plastic wrap and refrigerate up to two days, if desired.) Cut rolls into 1/4-inch thick slices. Place on lightly greased baking sheets. Bake at 350 degrees F for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown.Yield: 12-15 Preparation time: 10-12 minutes Cooking time: 15-20 minutes Ease of Preparation: Easy

Gussie’s Fried Chicken with Pecan-Honey Glaze

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Ingredients: · 3 to 3 1/2  lb  frying chicken, cut up, or your favorite chicken parts · 2 eggs · Salt and pepper · Garlic powder · Vegetable shortening or vegetable oil · 2  cup  self-rising flour · 1  cup  (2 sticks) butter · 1/2  cup  honey · 1  cup  coarsely chopped pecans · brown paper bag
Directions:
Rinse the chicken and pat it dry. Beat the eggs in a 9 x 13-inch dish. Lay the chicken pieces in the dish, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and garlic powder to taste. Turn the chicken and season the other side, then slosh the chicken parts around in the egg until well coated.Place enough shortening or oil in a cast-iron skillet or electric skillet to come just halfway up the sides of the chicken parts. Heat shortening or oil just until smoking, about 375 degrees. Place the flour in a paper bag, add the chicken pieces, a few at a time, and shake to coat well. Remove the chicken with tongs and place it in the hot fat. Cover the pan, leaving a crack for steam to escape, lower the heat to 325 degrees for electric skillet, and cook for 10 minutes. Turn the chicken with tongs, cover again (leaving the lid open just a crack), and cook for 10 minutes longer. Very large pieces may need to be cooked a little longer. Drain the chicken on paper towels and transfer to a platter. To make the glaze, melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Whisk in the honey until well blended. Bring to a simmer and add the pecans. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Ladle the glaze over the hot fried chicken and serve.Yield: 4 servings Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 20 minutes Ease of preparation: moderately easy

Spicy Green Beans

Ingredients: · 4 slices bacon, cut into 1″ pieces · 1 onion, minced · 2  lb  fresh green beans, tipped and washed · 1  cup  boiling water · 3  tablespoon  white vinegar · 3  tablespoon  butter · salt and pepper · 1  teaspoon  cayenne pepper · 1/2 lemon, juice for garnish
Directions:
Cook bacon in frying pan until crisp. Drain bacon and set aside, leaving drippings in skillet. Add onions to drippings and saute until tender. Add green beans to pan and saute over medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add boiling water to pan and cover. Cook for about 15 minutes, just until beans are tender. Add vinegar, butter and salt and pepper and stir. Add back crisp bacon before serving. Garnish with a squeeze of lemon juice.Yield: 6 servings Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Ease of preparation: Easy

Spinach, Strawberry, and Hearts of Palm Salad

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Ingredients: · 1/3  cup  cider vinegar · 3/4  cup  sugar · 2  tablespoon  fresh lemon juice · 1  teaspoon  salt · 1  cup  vegetable oil · 1/2 small red onion, grated · 1 1/2  tablespoon  poppy seeds · 1  teaspoon  dry mustard · 1/2  teaspoon  paprika · 1 1/2  lb  fresh spinach, washed and torn into pieces · 1 can hearts of palm, drained and chopped · 2  cup  strawberries, stemmed and sliced · 1  cup  chopped walnuts
Directions:
For the dressing, combine the vinegar, sugar, lemon juice, and salt in a small non-reactive saucepan and heat over medium heat until the sugar dissolves, stirring frequently. Remove pan from heat and let cool to room temperature. When cooled, whisk in the oil, onion, poppy seeds, dry mustard and paprika until thoroughly combined. Set dressing aside. In a salad bowl, combine the spinach, hearts of palm, strawberries, and walnuts. When ready to serve, add some of the dressing, and toss gently. Serve the remaining dressing alongside the salad so diners may add more, if desired.Yield: 12 servings Preparation time: 10 minutes Cook time: 15 minutes Ease of preparation: easy

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Mango Coconut Rice

Ingredients: · 1  tablespoon  olive oil · 1 1/2  cup  long-grain rice · 1 (14-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk · 2/3  cup  water · 1  teaspoon  salt · 1 large ripe mango, peeled and cubed
Directions:
In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the rice and stir to coat with the oil. Add the coconut milk, water, and salt; bring to a boil. Stir in the mango. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer about 20 minutes or until the liquid is absorbed. Remove the rice from the heat and fluff with a fork. Place a clean, dry dish towel over the pan, cover with the lid, and let steam for 5 minutes before serving. Prep Time – 5 minutesInactive Prep Time – 5 minutesCook Time – 20 minutesYield – 6 servingsDifficulty – Easy

Old-Fashioned Chocolate Cake

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Llew and Rochelle pose with the Old-Fashioned Chocolate Cake baked by Amy to celebrate Llew’s Birthday

A Book Lover’s Dinner Menu

A Book Lover’s Dinner Menu

Hosted by
LLEW AND ROCHELLE ALMEIDA

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Placing the Saltimboca on the table in our Southport Dining Room

Theme

Since we’re all book-lovers, Llew and I thought it would be fun to plan a party and design a menu around the theme of “Food in Books”.

All our recipes are taken from
The Book Lover’s Cookbook:  Recipes Inspired by Celebrated Works of Literature and the Passages that Feature Them
By
Shaunda Kennedy Wenger and Janet Kay Jensen

As it has turned out, we have an appetizer from Ireland, entrée from Italy, one side dish from Canada, a salad from the Southern part of the United States and a dessert from England. So, this menu is truly eclectic and international, just like the books on this list. They reflect the tastes and culture of several different parts of the world.

Also, since it is late summer, we’ve planned a summery menu that includes Potato Salad, Fresh Garden Vegetables like Zucchini and Tomatoes and Fresh Peaches.

On the following pages, we have provided the recipes for the dishes and the passages from Literature that inspired them. As you can see, we’ve run the gamut from high-brow literature to bestsellers to children’s books.

We hope you will have as much fun cooking these dishes as we have had planning this evening and will, undoubtedly have as we enjoy the food.

We look forward to seeing you at our place soon!

A BOOK LOVER ‘S DINNER PARTY

MENU

Appetisers
Almond-Bacon Wraps
Inspired by Maeve Binchy’s Tara Road
(Art and Bonnie)

Entrée:
Law-Abiding Saltimboca
Inspired by Richard North Patterson’s Dark Lady
(Llew and Rochelle)

Sides:
Zuchini Lasagne
Inspired by Margaret Atwood’s Cat’s Eye
(Brett and Mary-Lauren)
and
Ruby’s Potato Salad
Inspired by Charles Frazier’s Cold Mountain
(Llew and Rochelle)

Dessert:
James’ Ginger Peaches
Inspired by Roald Dahl’s James and the Giant Peach
With
Aunt Petunia’s Baked Custard Pudding
Inspired by Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets by J.K. Rowling
(Dan and Amy de Lannoy)
BACON AND PRUNES

Because she was not such a near neighbor, Danny and Ria saw a lot more of Rosemary. She often called in around seven in the evening for an hour or so and they would all have a glass of wine mixed with soda in the front room.  Ria made hot cheese savories, or bacon slices wrapped around almonds and prunes.  It didn’t matter that Rosemary waved them away;  Danny would have a few, she and the children would eat the rest, and anyway it gave her a chance to bring out the Victorian china that she had bought at auctions.
From Maeve Binchy’s Tara Road

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ALMOND-BACON WRAPS

1 package fully cooked cottage or Canadian style Bacon (about 20 whole slices)
40 whole prunes (about 12 ounces)
40 small basil leaves
40 whole almonds

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Spray a jelly roll pan, 15 ½ X10X1 inch with cooking spray.

Cut each bacon slice in half. Cut a slit in each prune; stuff it with an almond. Place a basil leaf on a bacon strip; wrap it around the stuffed prune. Place the wrapped prune seam side down on a pan.

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until bacon is browned.  Serve warm with toothpicks inserted through the seam for easy handling.

Makes 8 servings of 5 pieces each.

(Recipe contributed by Maeve Binchy, as derived from Ria’s culinary genius in Tara Road).
Please Note: I realize that the quantity “1 package” of Canadian bacon is rather vague. You will have to make a judgment on this one. You need enough bacon to cover 40 prunes. Each piece of Canadian bacon is sliced in half, so you will need at least 20 slices of bacon. I have calculated 40 prunes based on each one of us eating about five of them.
SALTIMBOCA

Pausing, Michael took a deep swallow of wine. “So,” he continued, “he buys into lawful enterprises, including whatever cash businesses he can get his hands on—caterers, limo services, vending machine operations, parking lots, bars and restaurants.  The illegal money gets siphoned into all these different fronts, which scrupulously report every dime, then fiddle the books to make proceeds of heroin look like their came from, say, a zillion plates of saltimboca.”
His eyes, Stella realized, sparkled with quiet laughter. Stiffly, she put down her wine. “This place.”
Michael nodded. “Morro’s. The food’s good, by the way.”
(From Richard North Patterson’s Dark Lady).

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LAW-ABIDING SALTIMBOCA

2 pounds thin veal cutlets for scaloppini (yields about 16 cutlets), rinsed and patted dry
8 ounces sliced prosciutto
1 cup flour with 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon lemon pepper
16 thin slices (deli-style) provolone (about ½ pound)
8 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup dry white wine
2 cups chicken broth
2 lemons, sliced into wedges for serving.

Cover each piece of meat with a slice of prosciutto, trimmed to fit. The meat should stick together well without need for toothpicks to secure.  Melt the butter or margarine with oil in a large skillet over medium heat.  Dredge the veal-prosciutto patties in the flour mixture and sauté over medium heat, with the prosciutto side down first.  Cook each side about 1 minute.  Immediately transfer the meat to a heated dish and top each veal-prosciutto pattie with a slice of provolone.  After all the meat has been cooked, pour wine and broth into the skillet.  Stir over high heat, scraping up leftover drippings from the bottom of the pan.  Bring to a simmer, then remove pan from heat and pour the sauce over the veal.  Serve at once with lemon wedges. Serves 8.
ZUCCHINI

The past isn’t quaint while you’re in it. Only at a safe distance, later, when you can see it as décor, not as the shape your life’s been squeezed into.
They have Elvis Presley zucchini molds now:  you clamp them around your zucchini while it’s young, and as it grows it’s deformed into the shape of Elvis Presley’s head.  Is this why he sang?  To become a zucchini?  Vegetarianism and reincarnation are in the air, but that’s taking it too far.  I’d rather come back as a sow bug, myself;  or a stir-fried shrimp. Though I suppose the whole idea’s more lenient than Hell.
(From Margaret Atwood’s Cat’s Eye)

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ZUCCHINI LASAGNE

2 tablespoons olive oil
4 large zucchinis, thinly sliced lengthwise
4 large tomatoes, thinly sliced
2 Vidalia onions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons fresh dill, chopped
1 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped
Garlic powder, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup Mozzarella and Parmesan Cheese, grated and mixed together

Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees. Spread olive oil in the bottom of a large casserole baking dish.  Arrange a layer of zucchini over bottom of dish.  Add a layer of tomatoes.  Add a layer of onions.  Sprinkle half of the dill and thyme over onions.  Sprinkle with garlic powder, salt and pepper.  Add half of the cheese.  Repeat layers with the remaining ingredients.
Bake for about 30 minutes until zucchini is tender and cheese is melted.
Makes 8 servings.
Note: Do buy the fresh mozzarella and parmesan cheeses from the cheese section of the supermarket. Do not go for the packaged variety or the one that comes in the Kraft green package!

POTATOES

That noon, Ruby said she waned to walk up and check on the apple orchard, so Ada suggested they have their lunch there.  They made a picnic of the leftover pieces of last night’s chicken, a small bowl of potato salad for which Ruby had whipped up the mayonnaise, and some vinegared cucumber slices.
(From Charles Frazier’s Cold Mountain)

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RUBY’S POTATO SALAD

8 potatoes
1 cup celery diced
2 cups onions, diced
3 eggs, hard-boiled

Dressing:
2 eggs, well-beaten
1 cup sugar
1 cup vinegar
1 teaspoon mustard
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
4 slices cooked bacon, diced

Boil the potatoes in their jackets over high heat until they are tender.  Rinse the potatoes in cold water, then peel and chop them into small cubes.  Place the chopped potatoes in a large bowl and add the celery, onion, and hard-boiled eggs. Toss to combine.

In a saucepan, combine the beaten eggs, sugar, spices, vinegar, and bacon.  Cook over medium heat until the mixture thickens, stirring often.  Pour the cooked dressing over the potato salad and toss lightly.  Let the salad cool.  Cover and refrigerate for several hours before serving to blend flavors.  Best if made one day before eating.
Makes 12 to 15 servings.
PEACHES

It was a large hole, the sort of thing an animal about the size of a fox might have made.
James knelt down in front of it and poked his head and shoulders inside.
He crawled in.
He kept on crawling.
This isn’t just a hole, he thought excitedly. It’s a tunnel.
The tunnel was damp and murky, and all around him there was the curious bittersweet smell of fresh peach.  The floor was soggy under his knees, the walls were wet and sticky, and peach juice was dripping from the ceiling.  James opened his mouth and caught some of it on his tongue. It tasted delicious.
He was crawling uphill now, as though the tunnel was leading straight toward the very center of the gigantic fruit.  Every few seconds he paused and took a bite out of the wall.  The peach flesh was sweet and juicy, and marvelously refreshing.
(From Roald Dahls’ James and the Giant Peach)

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JAMES’ GINGER PEACHES

1 cup sugar with ½ teaspoon powdered cinnamon
8 well-ripened peaces, sliced and skin removed
4 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 tablespoons crystallized ginger, chopped

Sprinkle the sugar mixture over the peaches in a saucepan and let sit for 2 hours. Add the butter and ginger.  Heat peaches over medium heat, melting the butter.  Stir continuously to coat peaches with sugary mixture. Heat until peaches are warmed through, about 3 to 5 minutes.  Serve topped with custard or whipped cream. Makes 8 servings.
CUSTARD PUDDING
Readers of J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets will remember Aunt Petunia’s levitating cream-covered, violet-topped custard—the elegant creation that crashes and covers Harry with dessert, thanks to Dolby, the house elf, who has appeared to warn Harry not to return to the Hogwart’s School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.

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AUNT PETUNIA’S BAKED CUSTARD PUDDING
 1 8-ounce package of cream cheese, cut into chunks
2 cups half-and-half
1 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
4 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Combine all the ingredients in a blender and process for about 2 minutes on high speed or until very smooth.  Strain the mixture and pour into a two-quart glass casserole coated with cooking spray.  Place the casserole in a larger cake pan and fill pan with boiling water, to within one inch of the top of the dish.

Steam in a 325 degree oven for about 90 minutes. Pudding is done when it is firm and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.  Chill thoroughly.  Serve with fruit or molded desserts, over cake or pie. Makes 8 servings.

Note:  You can also make these puddings in individual custard cups (6 ounces each) coated with cooking spray. Place the individual cups in 2 cake pans.  Fill pans with boiling water to within one inch of the cup tops.  Steam them in a 325 degree over for about 70 minutes.

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Gourmet Club Members enjoying the Book Lover’s Dinner

 

First Post

This is my first post.

In the future, I will link to pictures on my Picasa webpage to share my most current adventures.

Please feel free to continue exploring my website for more information on my life and journies.

Pakistani Bada Khana

(At our dining table at the start of our Pakistani Bada Khana)

“Bada Khana” means ‘Grand Banquet’ in Urdu and Hindi. Our menu has been designed around typically grand winter dinners in the Northern part of the Indian sub-continent which would include modern-day Afghanistan, Pakistan and Northern India—basically the Delhi area and the general extent of the Moghul Empire—the ancient carvanserai Silk Route.

We’ve made the entrée several times—it is one of Llew’s ‘signature’ dishes (together with his Indian style Turkey and his Sindhi Biryani). While we have tried many different versions of the other dishes, we haven’t tried these particular recipes—all taken from Meera Taneja’s “Pakistani Cookery” except the one for Kulfi which I took off line and which I have tried and tested and found to be superb and very authentic tasting.

We are looking forward to a great journey along the old Central Asian Silk Route!

Love,
Llew and Rochelle

 

PAKISTANI BADA KHANA

Saturday, February 9, 2008 at 7.30 pm.

WINE LIST

Reds:

Chamarre Grande Reserve Pinot Noir (French)

Michele Chiarlo Barbera D’Asti Superiore Le Orme (Italy)

Valserrano Crianza 2004 Rioja (Spain)

Rueda Castelo de Medina Verdejo (Spain)

Whites:

Jean-Baptiste Adam Vin D’Alsace

Pinot Blanc 2005 Reserve

(France)

Clos du Roy 2006 Sauternes (Bordeaux, France)

MENU

Appetisers:
Vegetable Pakoras
(Brett and Mary-Lauren)

Main Dish:
Murgh Mussalam
(Llew and Rochelle)

Sides:
Mattar Paneer


Navratan Pullao
(Dan and Amy)

Dessert

(Bonnie and Art)

KULFI
(Indian Ice-Cream)

Kulfi is Indian ice-cream. It is eaten all over the Indian sub-continent in the hot months. Said to have originated with the Moghul Emperors who had ice carted to them from the Himalayas to the hot plains of Delhi, where it was mixed with milk, sugar and flavorings and eaten.

Ingredients:

1 1/4 cups evaporated milk
1 ¼ cups sweetened condensed milk
1 (16 oz) container frozen whipped topping, thawed
A few strands (about 6) of saffron
1 tablespoon milk, warmed
½ tsp. ground green cardamom seeds. (It is best to use a pestle and mortar to pound cardamom seeds—found inside the cardamom pod—fresh just before using the powder)
½  cup unsalted pistachios—toast them for 10 minutes in an 350 degree over, then when cool, grind in a food processor
A few whole unsalted pistachios, toasted and chopped or sliced, for garnish

Method:
1. Soak the saffron strands in a tablespoon of warm milk and set aside.
2. Combine all other ingredients (including the saffron-flavored milk and the whole saffron strands), except the last ingredient (whole toasted pistachios) in a food processor and buzz for a minute.
3. Freeze in an ice-cream maker.
4. Pour into a 9X13 baking dish or plastic ice-cube trays and freeze overnight.
5. To serve, place scoops of kulfi in a bowl and garnish with chopped pistachios.
Note: If you do not have an ice-cream maker, pour kulfi into a baking dish and place in the freezer. When frozen, remove kulfi from dish and place in a food processor and buzz for five minutes to break up any ice crystals. Then place back in the baking dish and freeze until firm.

GAJJAR KA HALWA
(Indian Carrot Pudding)
Gajjar Ka Halwa
(Bonnie and Art)

One of the most popular puddings of the Punjab, this is made in most households in the winter months when carrots are plentiful. The grated carrots are simmered for 2 hours in the milk and then fried in a little ghee, when almonds, pistachios, raisin and crushed green cardamom seeds are added. On special occasions, the halwa is decorated with silver wark (Silver leaf).

Prep Time: 25-30 minutes
Cooking Time: 2 ½ hours
Serves 8

900 gms /2 pounds fresh carrots, peeled and coarsely grated in a food processor
1.7 liters/3 pints whole milk
100 gms/4 oz. Granulated sugar
50 gms/2 oz ghee (available in Indian stores)
50 gms/2 oz. Blanched almonds, cut into slices
25 gms/1 oz unsalted pistachios, cut into slivers
25 gms/ 1 oz golden (not dark) raisins
Seeds of six green cardamoms, crushed
Silver leaf (or vark) for decorating

Method:
1. Put the grated carrots in a large, heavy-based saucepan and add the milk.
2. Simmer, uncovered, over low heat for 2 hours.
3. Occasionally, scrape the sides of the pan to loosen any coagulated milk that may stick there and add this to the carrots to help thicken the milk in the pan.
4. Keep stirring and scraping the pan until all the milk has evaporated.
5. Sprinkle in the sugar and mix it really well.
6. Stirring frequently, cook the carrots for 30 minutes, uncovered, until almost all the water from the sugar has evaporated and the carrots begin to stick to the bottom of the pan.
7. Add the ghee, almonds, pistachios, raisins and the crushed cardamom seeds.
8. Stirring continuously, fry the mixture until the ghee is first absorbed by the carrots and then released.
9. The Halwa is ready when the ghee begins to separate and has a glossy shine.
10. Transfer to a serving dish and decorate with silver leaf.
11. Serve hot or cold with Kulfi (I prefer to serve it slightly warm so that the kulfi gently melts over it)

(Bonnie and Art)

Agra: Islamic Architecture’s Ultimate Showcase

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At the Taj Mahal in January 2008

The bird sanctuary at Bharatpur did much to thrill and satisfy; but it was with irrepressible anticipation that we finally arrived at Agra Railway Station where a visit to the Taj Mahal would be the piece de resistance of our Indian interlude. Despite the fact that the Taj is one of the world’s most visited monuments and certainly the most popular in India, the city of Agra has remained unchanged—a pockmark on a truly beauteous visage. Development has only affected the quality of hotels serving wealthy tourists—each more ostentatious than the next, more sprawling that its neighbor. In terms of infrastructure, there has been no advancement in Agra at all and the lives of the common folks appear unaffected by the nation’s recent economic prosperity.

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Still, the Taj apart, the city boasts some of the most significant Islamic buildings in India. The only pity is that some truly amazing examples of Islamic architectural genius, precursors of the Taj Mahal, remain neglected—such as Akbar’s Tomb at Sikhandra and Itmad-u-Daulah’s Mausoleum, the tomb build by Queen Nur Jehan for her father—both of which I fondly remember exploring as a child in the company of my parents whose enthusiasm for the treasures of their country inculcated in me an abiding love for its remnant monuments.

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Red Fort

Introduction to Islamic Decorative Arts at The Red Fort:
Our forays into the achievements of Islamic architecture began at the soaring Red Fort, a counterpart of the one in Delhi built by Shah Jehan. In Agra, it is Akbar who must be credited for visualizing a structure that is awesome in its dimensions and exquisite in the delicacy of its surface decoration that features bas-relief in geometric and floral forms. A conglomeration of red and yellow sandstone and grey granite, not to mention marble and stucco, added successively over several decades by astute Moghul rulers eager to carve their own niche in history, has resulted in the massive shape and form of the fortress. A micocosmic world unto itself, such complexes reflect every nuance of Moghul cultural life—from the sophistication of learned poets and talented musicians to the provocation of countless harem ladies who brought feminine wiles to play upon masculine egos and eccentricities.

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Florentine pietra dura design

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Khas Mahal

All of these contradictory impulses are evident in the Khas Mahal (above right) , for instance, with its intricate Florentine pietra dura design (above left) that overlooks the banks of the Yamuna River upon which is very poignantly outlined the purity of the Taj Mahal’s curves and curlicues (below left).

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A small room with a cupola at the top (above right) indicates the space in which Emperor Shah Jehan spent the last twenty years of life, after his imprisonment by his son Aurangzeb. The fort holds moving memories of the ruthlessness that embodied Moghul supremacy at the same time that preceding reigns were tempered by mercy. Walking through the spacious courtyards that segregate one fine building from the next, one is stuck by the grandeur of the period as seen, for instance, in the huge bathing tub that was used by the ladies-in-waiting, while scented with the fragrance of rose attar (below right). How decadent, you think, was that era! How refined and yet how prosaic!

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(A few of the architectural nuances of the Red Fort)

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Lunch at the Oberoi Grand Hotel:

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That afternoon, we lunched at one of Agra’s most opulent hotels—the Oberoi Grand. Draped withthose ubiquitous mariegold garlands, we arrived at a banquet hall for a buffet luncheon that beggars description. Every conceivable cuisine from Indian to Chinese to Continental was ours for the sampling and the desserts, stretched across three tables, were sinfully decadent. Much as I longed to linger amidst this gourmet paradise, we had to get a quick move on as the treasures of the Taj Mahal awaited and we were aflame with anticipation.

Arrival at the Taj Mahal:

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Thoughts of indulgence and excess—both among Moghul courtesans and modern-day tourists–continued to assault my mind as we arrived at the Taj Mahal. Despite the tightening of security that has altered the original entrance to the monument, there is a great and tangible thrill among one’s fellow-visitors as one enters the grand precincts of this structure. For every detail has been so carefully thought over in the planning and execution of this mausoleum that only genius could have so perfectly conceived of it.

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Take, for instance, the towering main gate through which one enters which so completely conceals the mausoleum from view. Decorated with black onyx inlay in marble and featuring Koranic calligraphy (left), this entrance is truly spectacular. It might be a good idea to commission one of the professional photographers to take your picture because it is almost impossible to capture images of the Taj without a thousand people in the background. Indeed, one of the things that struck me immediately was the large number of tourists that flock to this monument and the fact that most of them are Indians representing every class and region of the country.

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Then, suddenly, one has crossed the threshold and there, in all its stunning glory is the Taj. I remember gazing upon it for the first time in my life at age 13 and feeling my breath catch, quite literally, in my throat. I understood the meaning of the word ‘breathtaking’ in that very instant. In that respect, the effect of the Taj is similar to that of the Grand Canyon. Not all the pictures in the world can quite prepare the viewer for its impact that comes at you like a thunderbolt. It is indescribably sensational and the best way to take it in is to find a quiet spot, as I did, somewhere towards the side, far from the madding crowd, and to spend at least five minutes gazing in silence at the onion domes and the pencil-slim minarets. I let my eyes roam freely over the poetry in marble created by the combination of delicate floral tracery on the translucent walls with the contrasting red sandstone buildings that flank its sides and the gentle arches that lead one into the concealed treasures within and, believe me, in spite of myself, they filled with tears and clouded over. I have been moved to tears by movies and by exquisite pieces of classical Western music—but this is the first time in my memory that I was brought to tears merely by being in the presence of architectural beauty and magnificence.

But then maybe I was moved to tears for other reasons. This location is special for us–it was at the Taj Mahal, right there on the ‘Diana Bench’–long before it became known as the ‘Diana Bench’–that Llew proposed to me and slipped the engagement ring on my finger. Yes, as he put it so eloquently, “at the world’s best-known monument to everlasting love and devotion”, we made the commitment to marry. And so, I might have been tearing up because I cannot gaze upon this poem in marble and not recall that magical day, that enchanted moment, that second that hangs suspended in my consciousness, when we hitched our fortunes together for a lifetime. Naturally, we had to take pictures again on that same bench to commemorate our date with fate.

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When you have feasted your eyes on the exterior of this building, built by Emperor Shah Jehan to commemorate the life of and his love for Mumtaz, his beloved wife who died while giving birth to his fourteenth child, start to make your way along the garden path towards the main entrance. Here, it is necessary to take off your footwear or wear cloth socks over your shoes. The actual graves of the emperor and his wife are in the ground for, in accordance, with Islamic tenets, man returns to His Maker in a tiny plot of earth that is completely unadorned. The tomb that replicates the position of the grave above the ground is ornate, covered with more pietra dura inlay and surrounded by lattices or jalis expertly carved from thick sheets of non-porous marble from the Makhrana quarries of Rajasthan.

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Whereas on several past visits to the Taj, I have seen faint lamps light up the artistic detail within, on my last visit in January 2008, I found it almost pitch dark inside, making it impossible for the observant visitor to admire the elegance of the designs created by the inlaying of semi-precious stones such as malachite and carnelian, turquoise and moonstone, opal and rose quartz, in the marble channels cut into the panels. Nor can one appreciate the workmanship involved in etching out Koranic scripture upon the interior walls or take in the beauty of the bas-relief in its delicate and very faithful representations of pomegranate and jasmine, irises and lilies on the marble walls. There is so much to examine and exclaim over as one encircles the marble screens that enclose the tombs that I could have stayed there all day despite the near-darkness of the interior.

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But eventually, like Adela Quested in A Passage to India, I found the crowds and the noise and the dimness quite claustrophobic and it was with great relief that I made my way towards the back of the Taj to look upon the almost-dry basin of the Yamuna River and to admire the minarets up close. Any way you look at it, literally, the Taj enchants and it might be best to arrive there early in the morning, long before the crush of human bodies spoils the solemnity of the mood in which the mausoleum was conceived and constructed.

Good Bye to All That—Last Night on the Palace on Wheels:
After visiting a modern handicrafts workshop in Agra where the craftsmanship of centuries is still continued in the marble inlay work and carvings that abound in the Taj, we made our way back to the Palace on Wheels to enjoy our very last dinner on board.
Bon Voyage!

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Udaipur: A Rajput Treasure

 

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Seated at Lake Pichola with the famous Lake Palace Hotel in the background

Udaipur is a very pretty city, perhaps the prettiest in Rajasthan. Compared to many of the places we visited, this city is neat as a pin and strikingly clean. Perhaps its tiny population has something to do with it—I believe that the guide told us that there were merely three hundred thousand people in Udaipur. In a country that is bursting at the seams, this figure is indeed miniscule.

In  A Courtesan’s Garden:

Driving around the city, you realize quickly enough that it is constructed around a series of man-made lakes. In a region that is characterized by achingly dry days and proximity to the desert, it is small wonder that wealthy maharanas (warrior kings) through the decades created lakes to reflect the cloudless blue skies and to allow for the pleasures of bathing and boating.

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And if there are lakes, can gardens be far behind? All those courtly ladies needed some place where they could frolic in privacy and gardens like the Saheliyon Ki Bari (above) were designed and executed for exactly that purpose. Here, the ladies of the court could meet frequently, concealed behind the high walls and verdant hedges of the landscape and escape into a world of wild fantasy composed of marble elephants that spout water through their trunks and lyrical fountains that sport musical trickles. A combination of trees and flowers add to the enchanted atmosphere and I could hardly tear myself away from what I found to be a completely Indian landscape design, different from any of the Moghul gardens we had seen and not in the slightest bit influenced by English garden design.

City Palace on the Banks of Lake Pichola:

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(Outside the resplendent City Palace)

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Interior Rooms of Udaipur’s City Palace

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Sheesh Mahal

 

Later that afternoon, we arrived at the gorgeous City Palace on the banks of beautiful Lake Pichola. Here, we spent a lovely morning taking in the glories of the Rajput monarchy. Once again, we found ourselves traipsing through room after room that offered a combination of stunning decorative delights that left us enchanted. Rising into the skies like the white tiers on a wedding cake, the City Palace is really a combination of many smaller palaces built or added to by 22 different maharanas between the 16th and the 20th centuries.

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The tiled mosaic work, especially those of the dancing peacocks in the Mor Chowk or Peacock Court (left), were especially striking here as were the dazzling red and silver glass decoration of the Kanch Burj.  Many of these palaces, such as the Fateh Prakash Palace, have now been converted into deluxe hotels.

 

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(Llew in the main painted courtyard of the Palace–above–and the City of Udaipur seen through a window in the City Palace–right)

We felt privileged to have lunch in it, later that day. Seated in the grand banquet hall of the Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel (below) where liveried wait staff provided drinks as we made selections from the sumptuous buffet, we could not wait for the romantic boat-ride across Lake Pichola that would follow very shortly.

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Before we made our way to the pier from which we boarded our boats, we stopped to admire the magnificent Crystal Museum on the top storey that contained some of the most incredible items I have ever seen in my life. As someone who has had a long fondness for crystal and glass, I found the collection imported by Maharana Sajjan Singh from England in 1877 jaw-droppingly fantastic for it featured crystal furniture such I have never seen before—tables and chairs, desks and dressers and even a crystal bed! We’ve all heard about Indian maharajas who commissioned French companies like Baccarat to make them chandeliers for their palaces that were so heavy that entire ceilings fell with their weight. Well, this collection must be seen to be believed—it comprises ruby red glass, emerald-green glass, sapphire-blue glass—indeed jewels could not have appeared more spectacular.

Boat Ride Across the Lake:

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With my mind quite reeling from the impact of the crystal museum, I made my way down to the Pier to board the boat that took us across the lake to the ‘ghats’ alongside the temples where we watched devout Hindus perform their ritual ablutions before the boat made a curve towards the island on which stands the tiny but very lovely Jag Mandir Palace (below) on its own little island.

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It made the perfect perch from which to look upon the quiet serenity of the mountains located right before our eyes—reminiscent of those in the many miniature paintings featuring tiger hunts that we had seen earlier that afternoon in the palace. Eight stone elephants stood solemn guard as we alighted on the island which made the perfect landing on which to indulge in a soothing cuppa. In front of us, the City Palace spread itself out in the anemic sunshine and watercraft left foaming trails in their wake as they skimmed over the glassy lake. There are few moments that will remain as indelible in my memory as this one: of sipping a soft drink right in the middle of Lake Pichola while taking in the sight of a commanding mountain scape upon whose peaks, no doubt, those elusive tigers once freely stomped.

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Our guide Kishan Das, a character if ever we met one, regaled us with every possible story from those comprising Bollywood trivia to the Hollywood locales used by Roger Moore and his ilke in the James Bond film Octopussy to the stirring tales of ancient courtly lords and ladies whose customs appeared charmingly archaic. Though we were disappointed that we could not visit the famed Lake Palace Hotel (now belonging to the Taj chain), we did sail right past its piers, taking a good look at its ornamental marble landing and the balconied rooms that look out over the city’s most famous lake.

(To continue your travels with us on The Palace on Wheels, please click on the Bharatpur link).

Bon Voyage!

Ranthambor: India’s Renowned Tiger Preserve

 

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On early morning safari in pursuit of the elusive tiger)

 

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The next dawn saw us at a railhead called Sawai Madopur, base for an excursion into Ranthambor National Park, one of the few preserves of the Indian Tiger. We were woken up at the crack of dawn and herded into special vehicles called ‘cankers’ (left), similar to the open-roofed Landrovers used on safari in Africa. Though we were warned about the steep drop in temperatures in the midst of the Thar Desert at night and had dressed accordingly, we were still taken aback by the chill of the air in that uncertain hour between midnight and daybreak. Though tucked in the warm folds of blankets provided thoughtfully by the personnel of the Palace on Wheels, we were, nonetheless, frigid as we made the hour long ride to the entrance of the National Park (below left).

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The main objective of this early morning expedition was to catch a glimpse of the elusive Indian tiger, an almost-extinct species, thanks to the rampant hunting and poaching that has taken place over the last two centuries. This majestic striped cat once roamed freely over the Indian plains seeking out its favorite food—the Indian sambha or antelope—and trying to remain concealed behind the grey vegetation that clothes the Aravalli Hills, its natural habitat. Despite the fact that an experienced tracker attempted to pursue the creature, we did not see a sign of a tiger that morning. We had to remain content with frequent glimpses of langurs (black-faced Indian monkeys), jackals and cheetal (Indian spotted deer), peacocks and peahens and twin owls.

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Still, I have to say that despite the disappointment of not having caught sight of a tiger, I was thrilled at the thought of having traversed the virgin miles of the Rajasthani bush for, were it not for this specific aim, I would never have set foot on this wild and rugged terrain, never seen for myself the gay abandon of protected Indian creatures or known what it felt like to awaken to the sounds of wild birds such as raucous parrots and spotted owls. For these reasons alone, the tiger safari was, for me, at least, an amazing experience and, the cold notwithstanding, I returned to the train fully exhilarated.

(To continue traveling with us on The Palace on Wheels, please click on the Chittorgarh link).

Bon Voyage!

Jodhpur: Reminiscent of Rajasthan’s Famed Blue Pottery

 

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At the pool of the Umaid Bhavan Palace that overlooks Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort

 

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The Indigo City of Jodhpur lies slumbering in the winter sunshine

If Jaipur is named The Pink City, Jodhpur–in my memories of twenty-two years ago–was the Blue City—so-named because the walls of this settlement are coated over with indigo paint to keep away pesky mosquitoes. The end result is that the city appears like one of the landscapes on the famous Blue Pottery made in this region of Rajasthan, especially when viewed from the heights of the Mehrangarh Fort that dominates the town and seems to watch closely over it with an insistent eye.

The Magic of Mehrangarh:

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Mehrangarh towers above the visitor’s head (left), a collage of steeply rising yellow walls, ornamental balconies and buildings, latticed railings and carved doors that conceal sumptuously decorated royal rooms. One rises to the ramparts of the fort in a high speed elevator that belies the age of the building in which it operates. Once I alighted at the landing, the sheer ingenuity of the architectural accomplishments astonished me—below lay a maze of narrow streets shored up by sturdy stone walls while in the distance, the Blue City sparkled in the watery sunlight. From the red sandstone ramparts, the faint outline of the royal cenotaphs at Jaswant Thadda on the banks of a greenish lake lay closely visible.
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A ramble around the fort’s precincts took us to what seemed like secret enclaves concealed behind bamboo screens or ‘chics’.

 

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The Takat Mahal is exuberantly painted and gilded

Room after room revealed itself as a dazzling muddle of mirror-worked walls and stained glass windows. Of these rooms, two stand out and demand attention: The Takat Mahal with its exuberantly painted walls and wooden beamed ceiling which was reportedly the room in which the maharaja frolicked with his innumerable concubines and the Moti Mahal or Pearl Palace where the stained glass on the windows was imported from Europe. In this Hall of Public Audience that is liberally decorated with gold leaf and strategically placed mirrors, fat bolsters, upholstered in silk, provide the visitor with an idea of how the room might have been used by its erstwhile royal occupants.  In the zenana where the ladies lived, hidden away from the envious eyes of the rest of the world, large iron rings revealed the presence of billowing silk tents once erected on festive occasions and also to provide shade in the summer months. In what seemed like a honeycomb of little rooms, guides pointed out the living quarters of the ladies of the harem, bringing a romantic twist to our fertile imaginations.
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Mehrangarh Fort houses a superb museum with marvelous remnants of the accoutrements that made privileged lives special—howdahs in solid sterling silver (above left), carved wooden cradles that once rocked royal babies (above right), richly gilded palanquins that once sheltered coy concubines and courtesans, jeweled swords and gem-encrusted scabbards, and a lovely clutch of miniature paintings beautifully displayed. Alas, I had only a little while to gaze upon these treasures for the attractions of the next room made insistent demands.

Thanks to the labors of an NGO, the Mehrangarh Fort has a world-class museum shop that stocks everything from silk paintings and postcards to jewelry studded with precious gems and cheap cotton scarves and we contributed to its success by our many purchases.

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Just a few kilometers away, we visited Jawant Thada, a spire-like temple of remembrance to those members of the royal family who were cremated in its environs. A series of beautifully carved marble cenotaphs are silent monuments to their once-privileged existence. As we walked, bare-footed, on the cool marble floors within, admiring the intricately-carved walls and the many altars with their curious niches, there was a great deal about Hindu cremation and mourning ritual that we could not comprehend. But we were glad to be in the quiet company of royal ancestry that had once held sway over these ancient princedoms.

An Art Deco Hotel in the Desert:

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But Jodhpur has one more glittering attraction to offer the moneyed tourist—the splendor of the Umaid Bhavan Palace Hotel where Palace on Wheels passengers were treated to a splendid buffet luncheon. The dream-child of Maharaja Umaid Singh who in 1929 decided to create an Art Déco masterpiece to provide employment for his famine-stricken subjects, the gigantic dimensions of this sandstone edifice will quite take your breath away long before you have even set foot on its red-carpeted floors.

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If the other genuine palaces of Rajasthan do not stir your senses, this one certainly will—its grand central dome projects upwards flanked by four minaret-like towers that combine modernist aesthetics with the Islamic lines of the Taj Mahal. Inside, in the grand reception area, carved balconies in several tiers lead the eyes upwards to the interior of the dome. Along the balconies are housed rooms that are now part of the luxury hotel.

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If the buffet meal we were served is anything to go by (left), this hotel lives up to the dreams of its creator and continues to preserve memories of an opulent era.
In the beautiful sprawling gardens, we lost ourselves in the ambience of an older world. By the swimming pool, where the distant fort seemed to be mirrored in the still waters, I wanted to curl up and meditate quietly on the countless ways in which Rajasthan seduces the traveler.

(To continue to travel with us on our tour with the Palace on Wheels, please click on the Ranthambor link.)
Bon Voyage!