Notes from Nautical Nantucket

(At the waterside overlooking Nantucket Harbor)

Nantucket is one of the prettiest places I have ever seen. An island, 26 miles off the coast of Cape Cod, Massachusetts, it sits amidst the ebb and flow of the swirling Atlantic Ocean. Imagine a place where pristine beaches are carpeted by masses of wild vivid pink rugosa roses…where seagulls and egrets blur the evening sky stained salmon pink and pearly at sundown…where cedar shingled cottages weathered to a uniformly grey patina are draped with shrouds of climbing blood red roses…where multi-hued hydrangea lift their mop heads to the stars along cobbled pavements and peep from beneath white picket fences…where prim ladies in crisp linens and pearls carry woven wicker baskets instead of pocketbooks…where Bay scallops and lobster–freshly caught off saline waters–feature on world-class menus in cozy restaurants that were once whaling mansions…where a historic library appropriately called the Athaneum housed in a splendid Neo-Classical building once hosted the likes of stellar American authors such as Longfellow and Hawthorne and Herman Melville…where hundreds of boats bob in jade-green seas in sheltered coves and hidden bays…where sprucely manicured tall hedges hosting circular, full-moon gates sprinkled with David Austin roses in ice-cream shades of pink and pale yellow welcome visitors down brick-paved garden pathways…where church fairs feature old-fashioned games of skills, rummage sales and vintage jewelry…where upscale design stores stand cheek by jowl with fine arts galleries featuring everything from traditional oil paintings to modernist sculpture…where shuttle buses ferry skimpily clad beachcombers to the water’s edge for another day of fun in the sun…where bicycles equipped with French-style wicker baskets are the preferred mode of conveyance…where salt water taffy and chewy chocolate fudge can be purchased as tasty souvenirs of one’s travels…all of this is Nantucket and more. Llew and I spent five idyllic days on this unique island, delighting in its distinctive ambience and lazying away to our heart’s content.

 

 

 

 

(Standing besides masses of hydrangeas and on the sandy pathway leading to Surfside Beach)

 

 

 

 

(Llew poses outside the Jared-Coffine House–left. Seacraft dot the deep blue waters) 

I had heard so much about Nantucket…and yet had never actually set foot on it. I had once flown over it, though, and can clearly remember sticking my head to the window of our aircraft when the pilot informed us that we were flying just above the islands of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard. I expected it to be similar to “the Cape” as Cod Cape is known to its many afficionados or like Martha’s Vineyard, its closest neighbor. But is is like nothing I had ever seen. Nantucket is different. A center for seafaring and whaling in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, it developed in the twentieth as an upscale mecca for the well-heeled tourist seeking the aura of Cannes or Nice in a corner of the North Atlantic.

To get to Nantucket, we drove from Southport to Hyannis on Cape Cod where we parked our car and transferred to a ferry (run by Hy-Line Cruises) that dropped us off on the island at a picture-perfect dock dotted with restaurants, souvenir stores and art galleries. Since we visited the island during the long July Fourth weekend, the resort was more crowded than usual. Indeed, summer brings hordes to this sleepy island, its 10,000 strong year-round population swelling to 60,000 before Labor Day draws the curtain down on another season of endless festivities. A shuttle bus took us to Surfside Beach where our accommodation at the Youth Hostel was the perfect vantage point from which to explore the island. Indeed, the hostel is located right on the beach front in an old Victorian rescue cabin complete with gingerbread trim that has been beautifully refurbished (above left). For the next few days, we shared space with a bunch of diverse travelers from around the world, from teenagers to white-haired single globe-trotters who barely spoke English. Not willing to skip a beat, we checked out our impeccably clean, brand-new dormitory style quarters and made our way on the island shuttle bus to “Town” where all social life begins and ends. We then strolled down to Jetties Beach to see the Independence Day fireworks from a cozy seat at The Jetties, a restaurant on the waterfront where we shared a bottle of red wine, tucked into a gigantic platter of delicious antipasto and ate thin-crust pizza for dinner. The clear skies made the display of fireworks particularly nice that night.

For the next few days, we basked in the leisure afforded by an island in which Time seems to stand still. With no set itinerary of any kind, we breakfasted each morning at the hostel on toasted bagels and peanut butter or bowls of warming oatmeal before setting out for another day’s aimless ambling. When we arrived in Nantucket Town (above left), we had a choice of things to do—we could browse through the upmarket stores that offered everything from one of-a-kind jewelry and uniquely designed houseware to antique maps and engravings. When we got tired of window-shopping, we made our way to the harbor along cobbled streets and well-defined red brick pathways where buoys floated on the crystal-clear waves and sea craft of every kind from fancy yatchs to sail boats and schooners told of the adventurous life  on the high seas. One morning, we joined a throng of folks to browse for used books at the annual book fair held by the public library, a magnificent edifice in the center of town whose marvelous built-in bookcases in solid oak and paintings of dour-faced patrons on the walls brought a hint of intellectual fervor to one’s foraging. That same morning, we rummaged among bric-a-brac at a summer fair held at Our Lady of the Isle Church (yes, there really is such a place) where I found some lovely vintage jewelry.

On yet another afternoon, we climbed the 94 stairs into the tower of the First Congregation Church on Center Street for stunning 360 degree views of the island (left). Indeed, the church itself is a marvel of 18th century architecture with its typical New England colonial white wooden siding and its tall spire reaching towards  Heaven. Inside, each box pew is a testament to the many wealthy families who made their fortunes as whalers at a time when the mammal was fiercely hunted in New England waters. Everywhere we went on Nantucket, reminders of the world of Herman Melville’s Moby Dick assailed us from the nautical motifs in the décor items available in every store as well in the auction houses where antiques featuring sailors’ chests and ship’s lanterns were strongly bid. Indeed, we enjoyed attending one such auction and taking in the thrills of the hunt as bidders vied for old maps, sea-faring oil paintings, battered woolen rugs and carpets and Chinoiserie.

Then, one morning, purely by accident while puttering about Mitchell’s Book Corner, I bumped right into Eleanor Gosse, a good friend of ours from nearby Easton. Her husband Roy once worked with Llew at Creditanstanlt and we have remained close family friends over the years. Eleanor and Roy own a beach cottage on one of the sandy moors that look out over the distant waters of Eel’s Point. They were so delighted to see us and were insistent that we join them for dinner, the next evening, in their beautifully decorated home. Roy picked us up at the appointed hour at a fancy cocktail opening reception at an art gallery featuring the work of one of the best-loved island artists Barbara Capizzo who also happens to be a good friend of theirs. After we had warmed our spirits with wine and edibles, Roy gave us a lovely driving tour of the island, taking us past the grand sea-facing mansions of such celebrities as Tommy Hillfiger and the Heinzs (of Ketchup fame, now the better half of Senator and one-time Presidential hopeful John Kerry). They showed us the shoe-houses that featured in the films Cheaper by the Dozen (both ther 1950s version and the more contemporary one starring Steve Martin) and took us past the Brandt Lighthouse.

Eleanor is a marvelous cook and we enjoyed drinks on their deck overlooking an awesome sunset   (left) before meeting their neighbor John who happens to be the pianist of the local Nantucket Philharmonic. Over swordfish steaks, a baked ziti and a delicious green salad followed by ice-cream and fruit, we had a lovely companionable evening indeed and a most unexpected encounter with friends whose company we always enjoy. Notice their beautiful and very lovable dogs, Magnum and Molly, who were extremely well-behaved all evening long.

 

 

 

 

(At Sconset Village that was ablaze with summer flowers in spilling window boxes)

The next day saw us take the bus to Siasconset (always shortened to Sconset), another ritzy beach at another end of the island where more grand homes and postcard-perfect cottage gardens enchant the eye. Though there is little to interest the urban oriented in these hidden nooks of the island, the natural beauty makes it worth the discovery. Darling cottages with adorable gardens laden with the raucous colors of flowering annuals greeted us everywhere.

Similarly, we once took the bus past the Sankaty Lighthouse to Madaket Beach where the sunsets are major crowd pullers. Beach combers were everywhere, enjoying tanning in the warm sunshine while surf-lovers took to the ocean like porpoises. That afternoon, we sought out the Seagrille Restaurant which reputedly served the best Lobster Bisque on the island. And we were not disappointed. A hearty bowl featured a herb crust beneath which sat a delectable offering of the bisque with large pieces of lobster meat hidden in the creamy depths below. It was a meal in itself

Another evening, in early celebration of my birthday (which was the next day when we’d be traveling on the ferry back home), we made reservations at The Ship’s Inn, a historic old whaling captain’s mansion dating from the mid-1700s. There, we seated ourselves down to a slap-up meal featuring the famous grilled sweet Nantucket Bay scallops served in a creamy sauce. We split a bottle of Chianti and ordered the piece de resistance—whole lobsters prised away from their shells and reassembled on the plate. In its front pincers, it held a quantity of spinach flavored cavatelli, it sat on a bed of brown lentils (to resemble rocks), held a bunch of collard greens (to resemble seaweed) around its tail and swam in a sea of passionfruit-orange reduction. It was so yummy that words could never do it justice. For dessert, we split a Chocolate Souffle Cake with an accompanying pistachio ice-cream. It is clear that the lifestyle on the island of Nantucket has attracted some of the country’s most talented chefs and among the affluent clientele that make the resort their summer hangout, they get ample opportunity to display their culinary creativity. Another unusual attraction are the cranberries that are cultivated in bogs (flooded lakes) and harvested once a year in the fall. Wild blueberries grow all over the island and the local clams and quahogs make the delicious soup (some would call it a stew) known as New England Clam Chowder—one of my favorite dishes. We ordered clam chowder in every eatery as well as the famous Fried Clams and were not disappointed.

On yet another day, we poked around the famous Whaling Museum (left) with its wonderfully nautical exhibits including the old light from an island lighthouse. Though there is nothing much to see by way of ‘attractions’, the true ‘sights’ lie in the abundance of unspoiled nature that encompasses the spirit. Those into water sports will find no dearth of energetic activity, but for the bulk of sun-worshippers who flock to the island, it is enough to lie in the sun all day long and vegetate. Bike enthusiasts will enjoy the clearly defined bike paths all over the island. It is so easy to rent a bike for the week or the day and take off. And it is an excellent idea to leave your car behind on the mainland. The island’s shuttle bus service (very economical at just $4 for a day pass, $2 for a single fare anywhere on the island) is excellent, the drivers chatty and helpful and the schedule clearly marked, allowing visitors to plan days of leisure as they explore the island without dealing with the hassles of traffic, parking, etc.

One of our most memorable experiences was taking a long walk by moonlight along the sandy bluffs on the way to Surfside Beach. In the quiet of the Atlantic summer night, the stars shone down upon us from cloudless skies and a crescent moon lighted our steps towards the salt scented waves of the ocean. It is to moments like these that I return in my daydreams when I wish to escape to parts of the world that have sanctified my spirits.

If it is a short beach break you seek, a few days of pure inactivity, an opportunity to de-stress in the bosom of Mother Nature, there are few parts of North America that you would find more restful. Consider getting away to the island that was beloved to Herman Melville and provided the inspiration for his most popular novel. It is a little parcel of England just three hours driving distance from home. What could warm the heart of a confirmed Anglophile more?
Bon Voyage!