{"id":657,"date":"2016-12-30T11:31:00","date_gmt":"2016-12-30T11:31:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rochellesroost.com\/index.php\/2016\/12\/30\/exhausting-second-last-day-in-paris-parc-montsourris-eiffel-tower-la-defence-sacre-coeur-the-louvre\/"},"modified":"2026-10-08T04:59:46","modified_gmt":"2026-10-08T04:59:46","slug":"exhausting-second-last-day-in-paris-parc-montsourris-eiffel-tower-la-defence-sacre-coeur-the-louvre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rochellesroost.com\/index.php\/2016\/12\/30\/exhausting-second-last-day-in-paris-parc-montsourris-eiffel-tower-la-defence-sacre-coeur-the-louvre\/","title":{"rendered":"Exhausting Second-Last Day in Paris: Parc Montsourris, Eiffel Tower, La Defence, Sacre-Coeur, the Louvre."},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

\nDecember 9, 2016, Friday: Paris<\/o:p><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nAn Exhausting Second-Last Day in
\nParis\u2014Eiffel Tower, La Defence, Sacre-Coeur and The Louvre <\/o:p><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>Awaking at Cite-Universitaire to the
\nsound of the tram bell on Boulevarde Jourdan, I showered, dressed and decided
\nto try to find a coffee nearer at hand than the caf\u00e9 of the complex (which was
\na five minute walk away in the adjoining building). The Receptionist on duty,
\nthe lovely Morgane, showed me how to use the vending machine and for 65 cents,
\nI got myself a caf\u00e9 latte and walked with it and my Pierre Herme croissant
\nPoire William across the street into Parc Montsourris. This venture ticked
\nanother item off my To-Do List as I had promised myself that I would try to
\nfind the time for a ramble in this park in which I have spent many a lazy hour
\nin past years. <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nBreakfast in Parc Montsourris:<\/o:p><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>There are not a lot of visitors in
\nParc Montsourris at 8.30 am on a late autumn morning. The decidedly nippy
\nweather does not attract too many\u2014and not on a working morning. However, there
\nwere a few dog-walkers around, a few energetic joggers and a couple of Asian
\nmen doing tai chi exercises! I munched on my croissant and sipped my coffee
\nwhile my ankles were sniffed by curious dogs. It was great to start the day in
\nthis serene fashion as it grew frenzied as it progressed for I was trying too
\nhard to fit in a whole lot of major sights into my second-last day\u2014in order to
\nleave tomorrow free for re-packing and closing shop in my room at
\nCite-Universitaire.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nOn the Metro to Climb the Eiffel
\nTower:<\/o:p><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>My main aim of the day was to make
\nit to the summit of the Eiffel Tower\u2014another first-time experience for me.
\nEvery time I have been to Paris in the past, the serpentine lines have put me
\noff trying to get to the top. Since it was winter, I presumed there\u2019d be fewer
\ntourists and that the wait would be shorter.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>I rode the No. 6 metro train towards
\nCharles de Gaulle\/L\u2019Etoile and got off at Bir-Hakeim. If the name sounds
\nfamiliar, it is the spot in Afro-French history notorious for one of the most
\nimportant French battles ever fought during World War II. There is information
\nabout this battle on the platform of the metro station (which is overground). <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nViewing the Jewish Memorials of the
\nVelodrome d\u2019Hiver (the Vel d\u2019Hiv):<\/o:p><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>The metro stop of Bir-Hakeim is where
\nyou get off to see the Eiffel Tower. But it is also where the notorious
\nVelodrome d\u2019Hiver once stood. It was a stadium for cycling tournaments and it
\nhad once attracted thousands of Parisians to its crowded stands. During World
\nWar II, after Paris was occupied by the Nazis and the Jewish purge began,
\nParisian police began rounding up Jews from the Marais and bussing them to the
\nVel d\u2019Hiv where they were held for five days with barely any food or water. A
\nnumber of children and elderly Jews perished here even before they were further
\nbussed to Drancy or Beaune from where they were deported to the concentration
\ncamps. I had become aware of the Vel d\u2019Hiv and its association with World War
\nII history after reading the wonderful novel by Tatiana de Rosney called Sarah\u2019s Key<\/i>\u2014of which a rather wonderful
\nmovie has also been made. (It is, in fact, a text in the course I teach on \u2018Migration,
\nMarginalization and Partition\u2019 at NYU). <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>Descending from the metro platform
\nin the elevator to ground level, I asked the staff at the ticket window where I
\ncould find the memorials. I had already visited one of them before\u2014it was then
\na large marble slab crowned with wreaths on the main road. But when I got there
\nthis time, I found the entire area cordoned off behind construction partitions.
\nOn reading the information available around it, I discovered that a major
\nrenovation project is currently on and that the small memorial is going to
\nbecome a most impressive spot with a visitor center and other such monuments
\nadded to it. It will probably be finished in the next couple of years. <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>However, the ticketing clerk also
\ndirected me across the main road to the Quai de Grenelle where another monument
\nto the fallen Jews is to be found. I followed his instructions, crossed the
\nstreet and found myself in a small strip of garden\u2014rather forlorn at this time
\nof year\u2014with a very large and impressive sculpture at the end of the pathway on
\nthe Isle de Grenelle (the third island in Paris about which not many people
\nknow. It is the same island that also contains a miniature version of the
\nStatue of Liberty). I walked along the pathway and reached the sculpture which
\ndepicts a Jewish family of varied ages sitting in despair around their meagre
\nbelongings with little knowledge of the fact that they were being moved towards
\ntheir deaths. I found the monument deeply moving.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nOff to the Eiffel Tower:<\/o:p><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>Having ticked another item off my To-Do
\nList, I walked quickly for another ten minutes towards the Eiffel Tower. As I
\nhad expected, the line was barely there. I reached at about 10.30 and stood in
\nline to get a ticket for about 15 minutes and for another five minutes to get
\ninto the high-speed elevators that whisk you to the top for 17 euros. Had I
\ncome in the summer, I would have waited in line for at least two hours!<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span> 
\n<\/span>I have to say that I was excited about getting to the top of the Eiffel
\nTower. I have always loved this monument, the strange vision of Charles Eiffel
\nwho thought it okay to create a great wrought-iron tower on the banks of the
\nSeine that would rival every other building in height and prominence.  <\/span>Its wonderful design fascinates me and I love
\nthe decorative work around its various tiers. Going up, however, is altogether
\nanother experience and I loved every second of it.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>The ride up in the elevator is
\nitself quite chest-heaving for you rise to unbelievable heights so quickly that
\nyou are likely to feel a twinge of vertigo\u2014I certainly did\u2014until you adjust to
\nthe sudden difference. You will also find your ears popping at the difference
\nin air pressure. There are also stairs, of course, and you can climb up all the
\nway to the top\u2014but I was not built of such stern stuff (at least not after
\nhaving climbed to the top of Notre-Dame and the Arc de Triomphe on this
\nvisit!). When you get off at the first level, you are amazed at the sights you
\nsee. Sadly, although there was no rain, the air pollution in Paris had caused a
\nhazy smog to settle over the city. The pictures I got were, therefore, not the
\nbest. But as I circumnavigated the city, I saw every monument and could pick it
\nout so clearly: the Dome of Les Invalides Church, the mountain (Montmartre)
\ntopped by the Church of Sacre-Coeur, the many bridges over the Seine, etc.
\nThere are restaurants and souvenir stores and all sorts of attractions to keep
\nthe visitor busy in addition to the thrill of taking pictures or posing for
\nselfies against the backdrop of Baron Haussmann\u2019s glorious city. <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>When you are done on this floor, you
\ntake the elevator again to another level which allows you to climb to the
\nsummit. Here you can see the office that Charles Eiffel used when the tower was
\nunder construction. It is the same office in which he entertained a visitor in
\nthe form of a fellow-inventor Thomas Alva Edison of the USA who used the tower
\nand its height to test his own wireless and radio inventions. The view from
\nthis level is even more scintillating for the mountain on which Sacre-Coeur
\nstands is dwarfed. You also can see the Arc de Triomphe very clearly as well as
\nthe avenues that radiate from out of it to form a star (the Etoile) after which
\nthe entire square (or circle) is named. You can see the island of Grenelle and
\nLady Liberty holding aloft her torch. You can see the Palais de Chaillot with
\nits lovely classical semi-circular design. You can see the Musee de Quai Blanly
\ndesigned again by the famed Jean Nouvel only a few blocks away with its
\ninteresting glass walls and its lovely landscaped garden. Basically, from this
\nheight, you can see everything and you can see it from an entirely novel and
\nquite incredible perspective. So, in every respect, I was completely floored by
\nmy first-time rising to the Eiffel Tower\u2019s summit and it was with difficulty that
\nI dragged myself away after using the facilities on the lower level again. It
\nwas 12.30 pm by the time I left the premises after taking a few pictures.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nOff to La Defence:<\/o:p><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>Instead of walking towards the metro
\nstation at Bir-Hakeim, I decided to cross the river Seine just in front of the
\nEiffel Tower and walk past the gardens of the Palais de Chaillot towards the
\nmetro station at Trocadero. From there, I took the metro to La Defence, a
\nrather longish journey (but free today as a result of Paris\u2019 continued
\npollution) as I wanted to see the gigantic contemporary arch that has been
\nbuilt there, up close and personal. It was very easy to get there and,
\nbasically, all I expected was to see the Arch and to take a few pictures.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>What I did not expect to find and what
\nI did see was a huge Christmas Market that had sprouted up in the courtyard
\nthat is surrounded by a concrete jungle\u2014for La Defence is similar to London\u2019s
\nCanary Wharf or New York\u2019s Financial District. It is a glass and concrete
\njungle filled with banks and other financial institutions and surrounded by
\nupscale stores that cater to the heavy-walleted. Naturally, I cannot pass by a
\nChristmas Market without browsing through it and since it was lunch-time, I was
\nfortunate to be offered a lot of tasters\u2014cheese, honey, nougat, sausages. It
\nwas lovely to nibble as I had begun to feel hunger pangs. After I had spent
\nabout half an hour taking in the sight of all these edible goodies and having
\npassers-by take my picture against the towering arch, I got on to the metro
\nagain and set off for my next destination: the Church of Sacre-Coeur at
\nMontmartre.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nVisiting Montmartre:<\/o:p><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>On past visits to Paris, I have
\nthoroughly scoured Montmartre which is rich in artistic history\u2014many
\nImpressionist painters had either made their homes in the area of had hung out
\nhere (as Picasso did at the Lapin Agile<\/i>,
\na local bar). On this occasion, with less time to linger, I made it quickly out
\nof the metro station at Abbesse (which I always admire for its original Art
\nNouveau-style arched iron-work at the metro stairwell) and followed signs along
\nRue Yvonne Le Tac to the funicular train. Indeed, on past visits, I have
\nactually climbed up and down the lovely set of stairs that leads to the top of
\nthe mountain. This time, I was content to do it the easier way.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>The funicular train, which is
\nordinarily accessible by a metro ticket, was also free today. Luckily, there
\nwere not a lot of people and although one of the trains was out of service
\n(annoying!), the ride to the top did not involve a wait of longer than 20
\nminutes. They were, however, 20 minutes on my feet\u2014so my fatigue levels were
\nalso growing consistently as the day progressed. <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nVisiting The Church of Sacre-Coeur:<\/o:p><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>Once I got off the funicular train,
\nI made my way towards the main entrance of the church as that was my first
\npriority. There were lots of people milling around the steps that provide
\nstrategic picture ops as the entire city of Paris seems to lie at your feet. I
\nhad my own picture taken and then began the ascent to the church entrance.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>Mass was going on when I entered the
\nchurch\u2014so I crept around as quietly as I could, stayed on the last pew and said
\na prayer. The altar is remarkable for its mosaic work and its lovely sculptures
\nof Christ. There was a crib up already\u2014even though it was only early December.
\nA few minutes later, I was out of the church and making a right out of the exit
\ntowards the Place du Tertre.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>The Place du Tertre is the biggest
\nattraction of the area. It is a cobbled square in which artists take up
\nresidence to paint portraits, do caricatures or present you with pen and ink
\ndrawings of your likeness. Through the years, almost all members of our family
\nhave had their likeness sketched here and I have framed versions of them in our
\nhome in Connecticut. The square is surrounded by restaurants and eateries that
\nspill on to the pavement during the summer in the typical French concept of the
\ncaf\u00e9-trottoir<\/i>. However, in winter the
\nentire atmosphere is different. The large trees have lost their foliage and
\nrise bare towards the skies. There are fewer artists, fewer people and the
\npavement chairs and tables were nowhere to be seen. I walked around the area
\nand felt somewhat forlorn by its emptiness. There was no reason to linger any
\nlonger although the souvenir shops were tempting. A few minutes later, I walked
\nas briskly as I could across the cobbled streets and arrived at the stop for
\nthe funicular train from where I made my way down quite easily. <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>Since there was a Fragonard<\/i> shop right at the funicular
\ntrain stop, I popped into it to try to find a particular item I was seeking: a
\nsmall set of ten perfumes. Alas, it has been discontinued\u2014all they carry now
\nare the ten eau de toilettes (much lighter versions) of their signature
\nfragrances.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nOff to the Louvre:<\/o:p><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>With three major items ticked off my
\nTo-Do List for the day, it was only left for me to make a visit to the Musee
\nLouvre. It was about 4.30 pm and I knew that since the museum is open on
\nFridays until 9.45 pm, I had several hours ahead of me to view its treasures. I
\nhave, of course, been to the Louvre several times\u2014and I do have my favorite
\ncanvasses to which I say Hello each time I am there. I also adore the building
\nitself\u2014the gorgeous confection of a Palace that the Bourbon kings added to as
\nthey multiplied their wealth and their desire for luxury. The galleries
\nthemselves are so splendidly decorated that most of the time I am taking in
\ntheir treasures rather than the stacks of paintings, sculpture and decorative
\narts that actually make up this diverse and quite overwhelming collection. <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>Emerging out of the metro through a
\nquite different way this time (underground, through a large upscale mall), I
\narrived at the base under the marvelous glass triangular canopy created by the
\nChinese-American architect I.M. Pei. I headed straight for the cloak room, left
\nmy bag there, then headed to the ticket office where my Met ID card got me free
\nentry into the museum\u2014a huge bonus! With the museum\u2019s floor plan in my hands, I
\ntried to find my way through the three wings that comprise this humongous
\nspace: the Denton, Sully and Richelieu wings.    <\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n            <\/span>So here is what I managed to cover
\non this trip, beginning my wandering at 5.00 pm.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n1.     <\/span><\/span><\/span>Winged Victory of Samotrace<\/span><\/i>
\n(classical sculpture believed to be figurehead on ship\u2019s prow).<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n2.    
\n<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/i>The
\nBorghese Athlete.<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n3.     <\/span><\/span><\/span>The Battle of Romano<\/span><\/i>
\nby Paolo Ucello<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n4.     <\/span><\/span><\/span>Portrait of Grandfather and
\nGrandson<\/span><\/i> by Ghiurlandaio.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n5.     <\/span><\/span><\/span>The Visitation<\/span><\/i>
\nby Sandro Botticelli<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n6.     <\/span><\/span><\/span>St. John the Baptist<\/span><\/i>
\nby Leonardo da Vince.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n7.     <\/span><\/span><\/span>Madonna of the Rocks<\/span><\/i>
\nby L da Vini.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n8.     <\/span><\/span><\/span>Portrait of Italian Female
\nAristocrat<\/span><\/i> by L da Vinci<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n9.     <\/span><\/span><\/span>Madonna with St. Anne and Jesus<\/span><\/i>
\nby L da Vinci<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n10.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Wedding Feast at Cana<\/span><\/i>
\nby Paolo Veroneze<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n11.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Mona Lisa<\/span><\/i>
\nby Leonardo da Vinci<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n12.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Odalisque <\/span><\/i>by
\nTitian<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n13.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Coronation of Napoleon<\/span><\/i>
\nby Jacque-Louis David<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n14.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Portrait of Female French
\nAristocrat<\/span><\/i> by J.L David<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n15.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Murder of Horatio<\/span><\/i>
\nby J.L. David<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n16.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Rape of the Sabines<\/span><\/i>
\nby J.L. David<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n17.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Crown of St. Louis<\/span><\/i>
\n(This is a replica). I adore the gallery in which this is displayed as it is
\nstacked with portraits of French worthies from the Baroque period.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n18.  <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/i>Crown of Josephine<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n19.  <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/i>Michelangelo Showing the Pope his
\nPlan for St. Peter\u2019s Basilica.<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n20.  <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/i>The Seated Scribe<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n21.  <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/i>Venus da Milo<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n22.  <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/i>One
\nof the Parthenon Marbles<\/o:p><\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n23.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Dying Slave<\/span><\/i>
\nby Michelangelo<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n24.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Liberty Leading the People<\/span><\/i>
\nby Delacroix<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n25.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Raft of the Medusa<\/span><\/i>
\nby Gericault<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n26.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Two Sisters Readings<\/span><\/i>
\nby Renoir<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n27.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>The Astronomer<\/span><\/i>
\nby Vermeer<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n28.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Lace Maker<\/span><\/i>
\nby Vermeer<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n29.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Lute Player<\/span><\/i>
\nby Franz Hals<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n30.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Self-Portrait<\/span><\/i>
\nby Rembrandt<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n31.  <\/span><\/span><\/span>Bathsheba<\/span><\/i>
\nby Rembrandt<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nNeedless
\nto say, in addition to seeing all these highlights and more, I took loads of
\npictures of the interiors, especially the ceilings as their decoration is quite
\nlavish. Also as darkness fell over the city, the Louvre was illuminated with the
\nloveliest, softest lighting, I took many pictures of the courtyards of the
\nPalace of the Louvre\u2014but none did justice to their beauty.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nI
\nwas ready to collapse with fatigue by the time I finished at 8. 30 pm. I also
\nhad the good fortune of meeting an Indian art scholar called Usha Sharma who
\ntold me that she teaches courses on Indian Art in Paris. I hastened out of the
\nmuseum and took the metro to get myself back to my place where I reached at
\n9.30 and went straight to bed.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nMy
\nsecond-last day in Paris had been chocobloc\u2014but what a blast I had! As it turned
\nout, every item of my To-Do and To-Taste List had been covered! I could pay
\nmyself on the back as I fell asleep for tomorrow, all I have to do is pack and clear
\nup his room and check out.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\nA demain\u2026<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

December 9, 2016, Friday: Paris An Exhausting Second-Last Day in Paris\u2014Eiffel Tower, La Defence, Sacre-Coeur and The Louvre             Awaking at Cite-Universitaire to the sound of the tram bell on Boulevarde Jourdan, I showered, dressed and decided to try to find a coffee nearer at hand than the caf\u00e9 of the complex (which was a… <\/p>\n

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