{"id":519,"date":"2016-07-17T15:13:00","date_gmt":"2016-07-17T15:13:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rochellesroost.com\/index.php\/2016\/07\/17\/highlight-of-an-alaskan-cruise-glorious-glacier-bay\/"},"modified":"2026-10-08T04:59:36","modified_gmt":"2026-10-08T04:59:36","slug":"highlight-of-an-alaskan-cruise-glorious-glacier-bay","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rochellesroost.com\/index.php\/2016\/07\/17\/highlight-of-an-alaskan-cruise-glorious-glacier-bay\/","title":{"rendered":"Highlight of an Alaskan Cruise–Glorious Glacier Bay"},"content":{"rendered":"

\n<\/p>\n

\nWednesday,
\nJuly 6, 2016: Cruising in Glacier Bay<\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\nWhale-Watching
\nat the Crack of Dawn:<\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span><\/span><\/b>Today was meant
\nto offer the highlight sights of our entire cruise. And by the end of the day,
\nwe realized why it is considered a privilege to be able to set eyes on these
\nparts of our planet. But to begin at the beginning…<\/span><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>We
\nset our phone alarms for 5. 30 am as the Cruise Director had informed us that
\nchances of whale sightings were best just before we entered Glacier Bay\u2014about
\n5. 30 am! Naturally, we took him at his word and by the time we reached the
\nCrow\u2019s Nest as the Explorations Deck is called, there were about thirty people
\nahead of us scanning the waters. Initially there was not much to report but we
\ndid see some rather cheeky sea otters\u2014brown bodies bobbing up and down and
\nidentified by shiny button noses. After a fairly long time, when most people
\nhad given up, we saw a few \u2018spouts\u2019 in the far distance\u2014these are made by
\nwhales blowing water out through their blowholes. A little movement was visible
\nin the water\u2014we saw what looked like black fins and tails\u2014but, even with
\nbinoculars, they were too far off. <\/span><\/div>\n
\nAnd then, just when I
\nthought how disappointing it was how little wild life and marine life we were
\nspotting on this trip, there came a gigantic Orca (Killer) whale almost
\nslapping against the side of our ship.  <\/span>I
\nkid you not! It was literally just three feet from our ship and directly in the
\nwater below us when it made a graceful turn, exposed its back and fin above the
\nwater line and then plunged below exposing fully its huge forked tail. It was
\nsuch an awesome sight to behold\u2014especially after I had quite given up on
\nspotting anything that remotely resembled a whale. Needless to say, it felt
\nworth completely worthwhile to have woken up at that hour to see what we did.<\/span><\/div>\n
\nPicking
\nup Park Rangers Mid-stream:<\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>Whale-watching
\napart, however, the sea surrounding Glacier Bay was stunning to say the least.
\nDotted with green-draped islands, it offers opportunities for some serious wild
\nlife watching if one has good eyes or a good pair of binoculars. We, however,
\nsaw none. At about 6. 15, we began to see a boat in the distance\u2014we thought it
\nwas a whale-watcher, but as it neared closer to us, we made the happy discovery
\nthat it was the commuter vehicle used by the US Park Rangers who began their
\njourney in it from Gustavus (pronounced Gus-tay-vus) in order to meet our ship
\nwhich they would board and on which they would remain for the entire day. It
\nwas really cool to see the three of them\u2014interestingly all women\u2014well-clad
\nagainst the cold in bright red coats. We waved to them from the Crow\u2019s Nest and
\ngot some good pictures of their craft. We did not see the manner in which they
\nare hauled up into our ship on the Starboard (right) side. Apparently, our ship
\nbrings its speed down to just a few knots in order to lower a rope ladder along
\nthe side of the ship. The rangers then climb up it and into the ship. Sure
\nbeats a cup of coffee to wake you up in the morning! One of their colleagues
\nthen sails away in the boat with the intention of returning to the same spot in
\nthe evening to take them back to Gustavus. A few minutes later, two of the
\nrangers came to the Crow\u2019s Nest. They would spend the rest of the day with us
\nproviding us with the kind of expert commentary that would guide us through the
\narea.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n

            <\/span>The US National Parks Service has
\ndeclared the entire Glacier Bay region a National Park. Thanks to the efforts
\nof the naturalist John Muir, who is mainly associated with Yosemite National
\nPark, the US government was persuaded to take this area on as a protected
\nregion. This means that it is maintained as \u2018wilderness\u2019 and because the only
\nway to get to these parts is by boat, only very few people on this earth have had
\nthe privilege of seeing the area. Because the whale populations in these parts
\napparently dwindled quite suddenly, environmentalists petitioned for the
\nbanning of cruise liners in Glacier Bay. The cruise companies, however, appealed
\nand, finally, a happy compromise was reached. Only two cruise liners per day
\nare allowed in Glacier Bay. So we were really honored to have the opportunity
\nto survey this part of the world in our Holland-American cruise-liner. Campers
\nare allowed to spend time here but there are no camp sites, no running water, no
\nfacilities of any sort. If you wish to camp in this <\/span>area, you pitch tent wherever you please and use the
\nwilderness for bathing and toilet facilities. We were amazed not just to see a
\nfew people on one of the beaches but to actually find two of them kayaking in
\nthe Bay\u2014I mean how cool is that???<\/span><\/div>\n

\nExploring
\nGlacier Bay:<\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\nWe spent most of our
\nmorning in the Crow\u2019s Nest\u2014it was one of the best places to be as it is an
\nenclosed area that is temperature controlled and one can hear the experts provide
\ntheir commentary which turned our attention to the map of the area and the
\nroute that our ship would take as it wove its way through a network of islands
\nto the glaciers that give this bay its name. Ice-draped mountains were all
\naround us by this time and you get a sense of actually being in Alaska although
\nit is the middle of summer and the warmest time of year in these parts.<\/span><\/div>\n
\nI nipped downstairs to
\nget breakfast up for the two of us: waffles with strawberry compote and whipped
\ncream for me, a bagel with cream cheese for Llew together with assorted
\npastries\u2014all washed down by hot chocolate and coffee. Filled with this lovely
\nrepast, we trained our eyes on the topography as it unfolded before us. In
\nfront of us was another cruise ship and as we followed the exact same route,
\nour ship literally inched forward. This allowed for a lot of photo
\nopportunities as the glaciers came into view. At one point, the ranger pointed
\nout a herd of white mountain goats\u2014a nanny with her kids\u2014on the mountain in the
\nStarboard side; but we could barely discern them as tiny white spots. <\/span><\/div>\n
\nOur exploration of
\nGlacier Bay continued as Reid Glacier<\/b>
\nand Lamplugh Glacier<\/b> came into
\nsight. These are basically great rivers of ice the tops of which are almost
\nentirely black or grey as a result of the debris (called moraine) that has been
\npicked up along the way. The faces of the glaciers, however, are tinged blue
\nand you understand where the shade \u2018ice-blue\u2019 gets its name! A half hour later,
\nour ship made a left turn into Johns
\nHopkins Inlet<\/b> and we were able to see Johns Hopkins Glacier come into
\nfocus. This glacier is the only one that is increasing in size\u2014the others are
\nsteadily regressing as a result of global warming. We took a bunch of pictures
\nbut I was constantly aware of feeling sorry that there was so little wildlife
\nin evidence. I had, at the very least, hoped to see a couple of bald eagles on
\nthis trip for birds and animals have the run of this land here and are masters
\nof all they survey.<\/span><\/div>\n
\nMargery
\nGlacier\u2014The Biggest Highlight:<\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>It
\nwas not long before we arrived at the big kahuna\u2014Margery Glacier. Being the
\nhighlight, they save the best for last. It is a massive ice river that runs
\ndown to the sea and as the ship inched closer and closer to it, we realized
\nthat the best way to view it and to get the best pictures would be to leave the
\nCrow\u2019s Nest and get down to the deck when glass would not inhibit our viewing
\nof the sight.<\/span><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>And
\nthat was what we did. It was cold on the deck and Holland-America had
\nthoughtfully provided cups of warming Dutch Pea Soup for everyone on board\u2014a
\nwonderful tradition that I hope they will retain. Just when I started to feel peckish,
\nalong came the soup. It could not have been more welcome.<\/span><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>Fueled
\nup well for more viewing, we went down to the third floor and when we emerged
\non the deck, we found just a few people there\u2014certainly not as many as I
\nexpected. Perhaps the bulk of them had already taken their pictures and left.
\nFor Llew and me, it was a marvelous opportunity not just to get some nice
\npictures of the glacier itself, but to pose against it as well. And finally,
\nafter we had taken the mandatory pictures, we could actually gaze upon the
\ngiant glacier surrounded by ice-encrusted mountains and take in the wonder of
\nthe region\u2014the dead silence of it all, the bird life (loads of sea gulls in the
\nwater) and the glare of snowy light as it bounced off the white and ice-blue
\nface of the glacier that appeared in some parts like giant stalagmites reaching
\nfor the air above. <\/span><\/div>\n
\nWhen
\nGlaciers Start Calving:<\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>    <\/span>I was disappointed that it was not warm
\nenough for us to see some of the \u2018calvin the glacier\u2014the name given to the
\nprocess by which giant chunks break off the main glacier and fall into the sea.
\nThe fact that the water around the glacier was filled with ice floes ought to
\nhave indicated to me that we were likely to see it happen\u2014but I had given up
\nhope. <\/span><\/div>\n
\nImagine our delight
\nthen when we heard what sounded like a gun shot\u2014a great big crack. And a few
\nminutes later, a great chunk of ice detached itself from the side of the glacier
\nand fell with a wobble into the sea with a huge high splash. Luckily, my camera
\nwas ready and since its journey down to the water was slow, I got a decent
\nenough shot. It was a true sight for sore eyes\u2014we actually saw the process of
\n\u2018calving\u2019. A few minutes later, we heard the rumbling roaring sound of the
\nglacier again as it proceeded to fling another chunk of ice into the sea. And
\nwe realized then why the ranger had told us that if we had not yet gone
\noutside, we ought to\u2014as the sound that the glaciers make are as awesome as the
\nsight of them.  <\/span>It was a truly splendid
\nmorning spent really well as our ship made a full circular turn at Margery
\nGlacier to allow passengers on every side of the ship to take in the absolute
\nbeauty of it. We realized then why this is the highlight of any cruise to
\nAlaska. It was a sight that would remain in my memory for all time.<\/span><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>A
\nlittle later, as it was rather cold on the deck, we went back to our
\nstaterooms. Our early rising had made each of us feel a little woozy but by
\nnoon, we were at the Lido Deck as the ship began its slow retreat out of the
\nBay. There were still lots of opportunities to take pictures but at the end of
\nthe day all we wanted was to drink in the sights of the mountains, the islands
\nand the sea and we ended up doing just that.  <\/span>    <\/span>  <\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nLunch
\non the Lido Deck:<\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>Everyone
\nseemed to have become really hungry by the act of glacier-watching for the Lido
\nwas packed. There were loads of choices on hand and I settled for soup
\n(Ketchikan Green Chile and Corn Chowder) as I needed some warming up, a plate
\nof small Middle Eastern nibbles and a bowl of spaghetti that I had custom-made
\nfor me Carbonara-style with bacon and mushrooms. Llew settled for a plate of
\nroast meats. <\/span><\/div>\n
\nRanger
\nPresentation in the Showroom:<\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>At
\n1.00 pm, feeling fully sated, we made our way to the theater to listen to
\nRanger Faye make her presentation on Glacier Bay and although she used
\nPowerpoint and some really good slides to make it interesting, I have to say
\nthat I dozed off through most of it. Early morning risings and too many late
\nnights have begun to take their toll on me and I am often finding it impossible
\nto keep my eyes open. Still, I was quite pleased with the few bits and pieces I
\ncaught and as we trooped out of the theater at 2. 00 pm, we decided to spend
\nthe rest of the afternoon at leisure. <\/span><\/div>\n
\nAn
\nAfternoon of Leisure:<\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>Llew
\nchose to take a long and much-needed nap. As usual, I was content with a 20
\nminute shut-eye after which I donned my sneakers and began a two mile walk
\naround the deck. There were a lot of other walkers doing the rounds, so I had
\nplenty of company. After I had walked three miles or nine rounds of the deck,
\nit was close to 5.00 pm when Mass was about to be celebrated. I joined Llew in
\nour stateroom as we swiftly got ready and set off for Mass which, I was
\nsurprised to see was attended by at least 30 people. Mass and Communion done,
\nwe went back to our stateroom to get into our bathing suits for a nice long
\nrelaxing soak in the hot tub on the Lido Deck. This was the first time during
\nthis cruise that we found the time for a hot soak\u2014on our previous cruise to the
\nBaltic, we were in the hot tub after each day\u2019s sightseeing in a different
\nEuropean capital. <\/span><\/div>\n
\nGala
\nNight on Board:<\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>Half
\nan hour later, we returned to our stateroom to shower, shampoo and get ready
\nfor our formal Gala Night on board. I love these formal (dress-up) nights as it
\nis a great pleasure to see everyone in their grand attire\u2014males in jackets and
\nties and women in strapless gowns and their highest heels. We went to the Manhattan Dining Hall<\/i> at 7.00 pm and
\nwere happily seated almost immediately\u2014so much better than getting there at
\n8.00 pm and having to wait for half an hour for a table. It happened to be
\nLobster Night\u2014so we were excited. <\/span><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>To
\nour good luck, we were placed at a table for four and were quite pleased by the
\ncompany of Bob and Mary who had just joined our ship in Skagway having done the
\nland part of the Alaska cruise first. They made very interesting company as
\nthey were very seasoned travelers. We were awed to discover that they have been
\ntraveling together since their retirement in 1993 and have undertaken a minimum
\nof two big trips per year\u2014sometimes three. Having done this for 23 years, they
\nhave seen most parts of the world (except Israel and India) and made really
\nentertaining company. Llew and I would dearly wish to follow in their
\nfootsteps\u2014Inshallah!<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n

            <\/span>Dinner was as good as the posted
\nmenu promised it would be. Both Llew and I started with the Shrimp
\nCocktail\u2014which was different from the British version which is usually lettuce
\ndressed with a Marie-Rose sauce with shrimp placed on the top of cocktail
\nglasses. In this case, the undressed lettuce was placed in cocktail glasses,
\nfour large shrimp were draped on the side of the glass and a tiny ceramic
\ncontainer of a cocktail glass was served to be used as a dipping sauce for the
\nshrimp which were also accompanied by a wedge of lemon. Although different, it
\nwas delicious. Both Llew and I also chose a salad for our second course\u2014Caramelized
\napples, pears and shallots were served in a balsamic-vinaigrette over greens
\n(nice enough). For our main, no marks for guessing that we both close the Surf
\nand Turf\u2014Lobster Tail with Filet Mignon accompanied by roasted carrots and a
\ngreen spinach pilaf. It was very good indeed and we both enjoyed the dish.
\nFinally, for dessert, I had the <\/span>Flourless Chocolate Cake served with a raspberry
\nsauce and whipped cream\u2014Llew ordered it too\u2014that Chef Suraj, during his cookery
\ndemo, had said was his favorite dessert on board. It was great, I have to say.
\nThe texture was incredible. It was rich and super creamy and the quality of the
\ndark chocolate used was so good that I could tell from the taste that it was a
\nsuperior grade.<\/o:p><\/div>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

\nEvening
\nin the Crow\u2019s Nest with Piano Man Jimmy:              <\/span><\/span><\/b><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>Our
\ncompanions said goodbye to us at the end of their meal and we decided to get to
\nthe Crow\u2019s Nest<\/i> where Piano Man Jimmy
\nMaddox had been moved for an evening of hits from Around the World. Once again,
\nwe were regaled by the multiplicity of his talents as pianist, singer,
\nraconteur. The songs he played were well-known hits and with a large number of
\npeople joining in both in the singing and taking spontaneously to the floor, we
\nhad a really great evening. At 11.00 pm, we finally decided to get back to our
\nstateroom and call it a night. <\/span><\/div>\n
\n            <\/span>It
\nhad been a day of immense sights and sounds and we were certainly enjoying our
\ntravels and all the wonders it was slowly revealing to us.      <\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nUntil tomorrow\u2026                 <\/span> <\/span>  <\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Wednesday, July 6, 2016: Cruising in Glacier Bay Whale-Watching at the Crack of Dawn:             Today was meant to offer the highlight sights of our entire cruise. And by the end of the day, we realized why it is considered a privilege to be able to set eyes on these parts of our planet. But… <\/p>\n

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